├── NO_requirements.txt ├── docs ├── favicon.ico ├── favicon.png ├── assets │ ├── favicon.ico │ ├── favicon.png │ ├── favicon-16x16.png │ ├── favicon-32x32.png │ ├── images │ │ ├── Empty_X.png │ │ ├── Empty_Y.png │ │ ├── Full_X.png │ │ ├── Full_Y.png │ │ ├── favicon.ico │ │ ├── favicon.png │ │ ├── mesh-data.jpg │ │ ├── POM-wheel_web.jpg │ │ ├── abl-gauge_web.jpg │ │ ├── blowtorch_web.jpg │ │ ├── cableties_web.jpg │ │ ├── caliper_web.jpg │ │ ├── favicon-16x16.png │ │ ├── favicon-32x32.png │ │ ├── head_blob_web.jpg │ │ ├── needles_web.jpg │ │ ├── psu_fan_web.jpg │ │ ├── psu_label_web.jpg │ │ ├── psu_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── tweezers_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_covers_web.jpg │ │ ├── SainSmart_catsy.jpg │ │ ├── USB_taped5V_web.jpg │ │ ├── V6_CHTclone_web.jpg │ │ ├── V6_nozzleX_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_ab-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_closeup_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_gantry_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_spare_web.jpeg │ │ ├── brass-brush_web.jpg │ │ ├── dehydrator_web.jpg │ │ ├── fil_sensor_web.jpg │ │ ├── g-code_flavour.png │ │ ├── kapton_tape_web.jpg │ │ ├── mstile-150x150.png │ │ ├── powerswitch_web.jpg │ │ ├── printers_go_web.jpg │ │ ├── solder-wire_web.jpg │ │ ├── stepdown-wiring.png │ │ ├── wago_clamps_web.jpg │ │ ├── x-axis_knob_web.jpg │ │ ├── y-axis_knob_web.jpg │ │ ├── z-axis_neo_web.jpg │ │ ├── MOSFET-HW300_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_StepDown_web.jpg │ │ ├── apple-touch-icon.png │ │ ├── axes_NeoDualZ_web.JPG │ │ ├── axes_POMdebris_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_Y-bracket_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_ab-nuts_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_worn-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_y-endstop_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_3pt-parts_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_cabletie_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_connection_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_insulated_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_plate-new_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bed_shortcut_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bed_thermistor_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_underside_web.jpg │ │ ├── crimping-tool1_web.jpg │ │ ├── cutting_pliers_web.jpg │ │ ├── diff-V5-blocks_web.jpg │ │ ├── display_start_web.jpg │ │ ├── eccentric-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── extruder-motor_web.jpg │ │ ├── fan-mainboard_web.jpg │ │ ├── feeler_gauge_web.jpg │ │ ├── fil_sen_connector.png │ │ ├── fluidd_screenshot.png │ │ ├── head_cart-plug_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_dis-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_back_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_bottom_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_front_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_hotend_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_spare_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo-spare_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_rightside_web.jpg │ │ ├── hot-glue-gun_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainboard_back_web.jpg │ │ ├── motor_inside_web.jpeg │ │ ├── pid-tune-extruder.png │ │ ├── pipe_cleaner_web.jpg │ │ ├── printer_fuse_web.jpg │ │ ├── printers_neo_web.jpg │ │ ├── silicone-mat_web.jpg │ │ ├── silisocks_top_web.jpg │ │ ├── tools_xh254set_web.jpg │ │ ├── wet-filament_web.jpg │ │ ├── y-axis_gantry_web.jpg │ │ ├── y-axis_motor_web.jpg │ │ ├── POM-wheel_harmed_web.jpg │ │ ├── USB_powerblocker_web.jpg │ │ ├── abl-working-klipper.gif │ │ ├── axes_20teeth-pulley.jpg │ │ ├── axes_flexcoupler_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_regular-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-ecc-nuts_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_gantry-bare_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_thermistor_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bedmesh_3pt_cold_web.jpg │ │ ├── eccentric_nut2_web.jpeg │ │ ├── fil-sensor_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_bottom-view_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_capricornXS_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_cart-heater_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_no-cover_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo-bottom_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_nozzle-e3d_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_plug-therm_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_thermistor-plug.png │ │ ├── hot-air-station_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainboard_front_web.jpg │ │ ├── silisocks_bottom_web.jpg │ │ ├── soldering_irons_web.jpg │ │ ├── tools_SuperLube_web.jpg │ │ ├── x-axis_knob_nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── ABL-height-gauge_web.jpeg │ │ ├── MOSFET_connectors1_web.jpg │ │ ├── MOSFET_connectors2_web.jpg │ │ ├── USB_powerblocker_2_web.jpg │ │ ├── adjustable_wrench_web.jpg │ │ ├── android-chrome-192x192.png │ │ ├── android-chrome-512x512.png │ │ ├── axes_20teeth-pulley_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_OC-installed_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_ab-nut_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_brass-ab-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_dirty-thread_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_oldhamcoupler_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_spider-coupler_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_stock-coupler_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-limit-switch_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_y-axis-crooked_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-bracket-done_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-bracket-raw_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-limit_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-limitswitch_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bed_3pt-frontview_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_connector_side_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_magnetic-foil_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bed_post-insulation_PID.jpg │ │ ├── bed_pre-insulation_PID.jpg │ │ ├── bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg │ │ ├── bedmesh_3pt_settled_web.jpg │ │ ├── button_connectors_web.jpg │ │ ├── cakebox-holder_back_web.jpg │ │ ├── cakebox-holder_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── calibration-tools_SuSli.jpg │ │ ├── head_GO_feeder-gear_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_GO_feeder-head_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_feeder_topview_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_hotend-dis_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_heatbreak-GO2_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_heatbreak-GO3_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_heatbreak-GO4_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_neo_ABL2level_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_fan-parts_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_filguide_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_heatsinks_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_hotend-new_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_vent-dis_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_nozzle-mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_ruby-nozzle1_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_ruby-nozzle2_web.jpeg │ │ ├── heat-shrink-tubings_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainboard_ferrules_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainboard_melted-D4_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainsail_save-z-offset.jpg │ │ ├── powersupply_label_web.jpg │ │ ├── printer_slot-USBc_web.jpg │ │ ├── psu_mosfet-mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── stripping_in_wires_web.jpg │ │ ├── tramming_x-gantry_web.jpg │ │ ├── ABL_sensor-dissambled_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_altcover-mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_cover_v2_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_wheels-weartear_web.jpeg │ │ ├── axes_y-tensioner_dis1_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_y-tensioner_dis2_web.jpg │ │ ├── baseframe_y-crooked1_web.jpg │ │ ├── baseframe_y-crooked2_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_3pt-left-sideview_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_different-spacers_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_insulation_cutout_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_wires-springmod1_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_wires-springmod2_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_wires-springmod3_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_wires-springmod4_web.jpg │ │ ├── cakebox-holder_front_web.jpg │ │ ├── crimping_set_ferrules_web.jpg │ │ ├── eccentric-nut_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_Sunlu_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── error_homing_failed_X_web.jpg │ │ ├── extruder_motor_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_3rdparty-hotend_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_ABL-sensor-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_GO_feeder-system_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_dd-mod-revo_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_go_hotend-screws_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_cooling-fins_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_directdrive_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_fan-heatsink_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_thermistor_stock_web.jpg │ │ ├── infrared-thermometer_web.jpg │ │ ├── klipper-compile-settings.png │ │ ├── neo_underside_mb-psu_web.jpg │ │ ├── other_spool-container_web.jpg │ │ ├── sheared-off-heatbreak_web.jpg │ │ ├── wago_clamp-assembled_web.jpg │ │ ├── x-axis_left-side-nut_web.jpg │ │ ├── KlipperScreen-smartphone_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_MOSFET_disassembled_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_connectors_labeled_web.jpg │ │ ├── PSU_covers_v1-v2-stock_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_Z-motor_underside_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_diaphragm-coupler_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_spring-coupler+ball_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-axis-limit-switch_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-gantry-cableties_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-axis-dismounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-limit-size-bare_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-stepper-mounting_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_3pt-right-sideview_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_K2Pro_wiring-harness_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_insulation_kapton1_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_insulation_kapton2_web.jpg │ │ ├── button-wire-connectors_web.jpg │ │ ├── crimping_tool_ferrules_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_open_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_Sunlu_closed_web.jpg │ │ ├── extruder-wiring2_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── extruder-wiring_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── fw_klipper_include-missing.png │ │ ├── head_3rdparty-heatbreak_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_Go_gearbox_disass_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_Go_zyssai_DD-mod_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_block-screws-close_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_cart-heater_stock_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_glowing-cartridge_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_ABL-bracket-side_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_abl-mount-back_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_stock-heatbreak_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_cart-ther-orig_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_feeder-inside_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_new-sen-therm_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_stock-heatbreak_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_partcoolingfan_HSC_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_sensor-mount-open_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_therm-cart-broken_web.jpg │ │ ├── klipperfw_superslicer-flavor.png │ │ ├── mainboard_mobo-GEN307_web.jpeg │ │ ├── powersupply_case-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── tools_iwiss-crimpingtool_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_alu-x-tensioner_holes_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_alu-x-tensioner_nuts_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_spring-coupler-setup_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_z-limit_sideview-bare_web.jpg │ │ ├── bedmesh_3pt_just-heated-up_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_Sunlu_left-side_web.jpg │ │ ├── filament_sensor_mb-socket_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_GO_MicroSwissBowden1_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_GO_MicroSwissBowden2_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_Go_gearbox_dimensions_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_heaterblock-v5-copper_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_hotend-screws_closeup_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_backplate_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_feeder-and-parts_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_feedergear-disass_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_heatsinks-topview_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_rightside_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_vent-dis-extruder_web.jpg │ │ ├── mainboard_complete_labeled_web.jpg │ │ ├── powersupply_voltage-switch_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_K2Pro_nut-loose_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_Y-limit-switch_bare_back_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_Y-limit-switch_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_ab-nut_pressed-together_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_alu-x-tensioner_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_alu-y-tensioner_mounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_gantry_bracket-position_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_y-motor_stock-creality_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_frontview-complete_tilted_web.jpg │ │ ├── bed_magnetic-foil-underside_web.jpeg │ │ ├── board_GC6609-stepperdrivers_web.jpeg │ │ ├── controlunit_err_bed-min-temp_web.jpg │ │ ├── controlunit_err_e1-max-temp_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_left-side_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_top-lid_web.jpg │ │ ├── extr-wiring-broken_symptom_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_ABL-sensor_clip_closeup_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_ABL-sensor_top_closeup_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_extruder-dismounted_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_hotend-kobra-sparepart_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_block-hotend-disass_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_ceramic-heaterblock_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_neo_feedergear-assembled_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_part-fan-HSC-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── other_fil-storage_feeder-cap_web.jpg │ │ ├── shrinkable_solder_connector_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_Y-limit-switch_bare_front_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-limit-switch_problematic_web.jpg │ │ ├── controlunit_thermal-runaway_e1_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_right-side_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_Sunlu_closeup-zipper_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_Go_gearbox_screw-positions_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_part-cooling-fan-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_block-hotend-tube-used_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_part-fan-coolcox-front_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_alu-x-tensioner_mount-closeup_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_x-gantry-tensioner-stock-hole_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_closed-empty_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_closeup-zipper_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_SainSmart_material-foam_web.jpg │ │ ├── enclosure_Sunlu_closeup-material_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_go_part-cooling-fan-coolcox_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_ABL-sensor_screws_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_bimetal-hotend_complete_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_complete_backside_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_hotend-3rdparty-complete_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_NEO_untrammed-x-gantry_marked_web.jpeg │ │ ├── head_neo_bimetal-hotend_disassembled_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_leftside_motor_mount_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_screws-cooling-plate_marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_gantry_screw-position_left-marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_gantry_screw-position_right-marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── head_neo_hotend-3rdparty-disassembled_web.jpg │ │ ├── stock-display_klipperscreen_jokubasver_web.jpg │ │ ├── axes_y-motor_stock-creality_pinout-marked_web.jpg │ │ ├── kobra-neo-cartographer-beacon3d-mount-v1_web.jpg │ │ └── safari-pinned-tab.svg │ ├── mstile-150x150.png │ ├── apple-touch-icon.png │ ├── android-chrome-192x192.png │ ├── android-chrome-512x512.png │ └── safari-pinned-tab.svg ├── favicon-16x16.png ├── favicon-32x32.png ├── mstile-150x150.png ├── apple-touch-icon.png ├── android-chrome-192x192.png ├── android-chrome-512x512.png ├── stylesheets │ └── extra.css ├── manifest.webmanifest ├── firmware │ └── introduction.md ├── hardware │ ├── control_panel.md │ ├── frame.md │ ├── hw_index.md │ ├── spare_parts.md │ ├── filament_sensor.md │ ├── powersupply.md │ └── mainboard.md ├── service-worker.js ├── printers.md ├── further_sources.md ├── safari-pinned-tab.svg ├── 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table:not([class]) { 9 | font-size: .65rem; 10 | } 11 | 12 | } 13 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/manifest.webmanifest: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | { 2 | "name": "KobraGoNeoInsights", 3 | "short_name": "KobraGoNeoInsights", 4 | "id": "/?source=pwa", 5 | "start_url": "/?source=pwa", 6 | "display": "minimal-ui", 7 | "scope": ".", 8 | "icons": [ 9 | { 10 | "src": "/images/icons-vector.svg", 11 | "type": "image/svg+xml", 12 | "sizes": "512x512" 13 | }, 14 | { 15 | "src": "/images/icons-192.png", 16 | "type": "image/png", 17 | "sizes": "192x192" 18 | }, 19 | { 20 | "src": "/images/icons-512.png", 21 | "type": "image/png", 22 | "sizes": "512x512" 23 | } 24 | ] 25 | } 26 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /.github/workflows/manual.yml: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | name: Publish docs via GitHub Pages 2 | on: 3 | push: 4 | branches: 5 | - main 6 | 7 | jobs: 8 | build: 9 | name: Deploy docs 10 | runs-on: ubuntu-latest 11 | steps: 12 | - name: Checkout main 13 | uses: actions/checkout@v4 14 | 15 | - name: Deploy docs 16 | uses: mhausenblas/mkdocs-deploy-gh-pages@1.26 17 | # Or use mhausenblas/mkdocs-deploy-gh-pages@nomaterial to build without the mkdocs-material theme 18 | env: 19 | GITHUB_TOKEN: ${{ secrets.GITHUB_TOKEN }} 20 | # CUSTOM_DOMAIN: optionaldomain.com 21 | # CONFIG_FILE: /mkdocs.yml 22 | EXTRA_PACKAGES: build-base 23 | # GITHUB_DOMAIN: github.myenterprise.com 24 | # REQUIREMENTS: /requirements.txt 25 | 26 | # - name: Deploy to GH-Pages 27 | # run: mkdocs gh-deploy --config-file ./mkdocs.yml 28 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /.github/FUNDING.yml: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | # These are supported funding model platforms 2 | 3 | github: # Replace with up to 4 GitHub Sponsors-enabled usernames e.g., [user1, user2] 4 | patreon: # Replace with a single Patreon username 5 | open_collective: # Replace with a single Open Collective username 6 | ko_fi: meowsketeer # Replace with a single Ko-fi username 7 | tidelift: # Replace with a single Tidelift platform-name/package-name e.g., npm/babel 8 | community_bridge: # Replace with a single Community Bridge project-name e.g., cloud-foundry 9 | liberapay: # Replace with a single Liberapay username 10 | issuehunt: # Replace with a single IssueHunt username 11 | lfx_crowdfunding: # Replace with a single LFX Crowdfunding project-name e.g., cloud-foundry 12 | polar: # Replace with a single Polar username 13 | buy_me_a_coffee: # Replace with a single Buy Me a Coffee username 14 | custom: # Replace with up to 4 custom sponsorship URLs e.g., ['link1', 'link2'] 15 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/firmware/introduction.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Introduction 8 | Here you'll find further information about the [stock firmware](fw_marlin.md) of both the **Go** and the **Neo** - like how to install updates, information about specific settings and known restrictions. 9 | 10 | However, you might want to give [Klipper](fw_klipper.md) a try though, as it offers additional features like Pressure Advance and Input Shaping and offers much more possibilities to customize your firmware settings. 11 | It also keeps the z-offset (yes, also *after* proceeding an ABL sequence) and doesn't suffer from this special kind of "z-offset dementia" like the stock firmware sometimes does. 12 | I personally switched to Klipper and can highly recommend it. 13 | 14 | 15 | --- 16 | 17 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 18 | 19 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /overrides/404.html: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | {% extends "main.html" %} 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | {% block container %} 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 76 |
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Sorry!
I've been digging deep, but I can't find what you're looking for..
Please start all over from HOME

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81 | 82 | 83 | {% endblock %} 84 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /README.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | ## Please visit the GitHub pages: 4 | # [KobraGoNeo Insights](https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/) 5 | 6 | --- 7 | 8 | ***If you like this work, please consider starring and supporting it.*** 9 | 10 | 11 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 12 | 13 | --- 14 | 15 | 34 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/control_panel.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Control Panel 8 | Both printers come with the same control panel. It's a 2.4" LCD screen with a control knob at the right side next to it. 9 | There is no additional microSD card slot located at this panel. 10 | The following picture shows the main screen after you turn on the printer. 11 | 12 | ![Main screen](../assets/images/display_start_web.jpg) 13 | 14 | The control panel allows you to control the printer manually, so you don't necessarily need an additional computer connected to the printer running e.g. [Octoprint](https://octoprint.org/) (even though it's advisable to do so). 15 | You can e.g. initiate the bed leveling process, heat up the extruder, load and unload filament, adjust your z-offset or home one or all axes. 16 | The usage is pretty easy and self-explaining - you turn the knob to the desired icon of the menu or function and press it to enter the menu or initiate the function. 17 | You can also upload gcode files directly onto your microSD card and start printing them by choosing the file using the control knob. Besides that, you can also pause or stop a printing process. 18 | See your manual for further information of the possible actions you can take. 19 | 20 | It also displays status information like the current temperatures and the temperatures that should be reached due to a certain function or during the printing process as well as error messages if they occur. 21 | 22 | The display also displays error messages if any severe errors occur. See the section ["Error Messages"](../problems.md#error-messages) for further information. 23 | 24 | ??? tip "Bed Level Visualization" 25 | 26 | The display does *not* show a meshview or the values of the measured points after you proceeded the bed level function when using the stock firmware. If you'd like to see that, you'd usually have to use additional software like the beforementioned [Octoprint](https://octoprint.org/) and an additional plugin for visualization like the [Bed Level Visualizer](https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedlevelvisualizer/). 27 | However, you mght find this function activated within a modified version of the stock firmware, made by users. See the section ["Mods"](../firmware/fw_marlin.md#mods) in the chapter ["Stock Firmware (Marlin Based)"](../firmware/fw_marlin.md) for some links. 28 | 29 | 30 | --- 31 | 32 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 33 | 34 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/frame.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Frame 8 | 9 | As already mentioned in the introduction of this hardware section, **I strongly recommend to check and tram the whole construction of the printer's frame first.** 10 | 11 | *Check the whole frame if everything is square, rectangular and perpendicular, check all screws, bolts, belts, wheels, electrical connectors - literally everything.* This will save you a lot of hassle, frustration and headaches later.. 12 | 13 | Just to show you what I'm talking about why it's really important to do so, look at the following pictures of the Y axis frame. 14 | There you can see the *huge* amount of play you have and you can actually mount the frame completely crooked. 15 | The first two pictures I took for showing you the maximum deviations which are possible. 16 | 17 | ![Y-axis crooked 1](../assets/images/baseframe_y-crooked1_web.jpg) 18 | 19 | ![Y-axis crooked 2](../assets/images/baseframe_y-crooked2_web.jpg) 20 | 21 | The following picture shows you the y-axis how it came *preassembled* at one of my Neos from the manufacturer - now imagine me trying to get an almost perfect print out it if I wouldn't have checked on it.. 22 | 23 | ![Y-axis crooked from manufacturer](../assets/images/axes_y-axis-crooked_web.jpg) 24 | 25 | *Seriously, I can't encourage you enough to do a complete check-up and maintenance of your printer before you even try to print the first time.* 26 | Not only will you get to know your printer better, it'll most likely save you headaches and many hours of fiddling around trying to find the perfect print settings - just to despair of weird artifacts showing up on prints just when you thought you found the perfect settings because they were caused by a sticky and partially clogged lead screw thread or so. 27 | 28 | Get yourself a good carpenters square in a 90° rectangular angle. Make sure the tool itself actually really *is* square - especially the cheap ones being offered often lack of precision and aren't really square themself. 29 | When attempting to measure the parts of the frame and bring them into the correct position, always measure at both sides of the construction. By doing so you can mostly avoid any misalignments which might occur if only checking at one side and maybe not really paying attention to the parts of the rails which are further away. 30 | You can also strengthen the construction itself by adding certain coponents which make sure the construction is and stays in a rectangular position. 31 | It's also advisable to use some screw glue like Loctite, just to make sure screws won't come loose over time due to the vibrations of the machine. 32 | 33 | Take your time setting up the frame of the printer (and the axes and wheels etc. after doing so as well), be as precise as you can be. Every misalignment here will most likely cause some weird issues later which might be hard to find or even solve if you're not remembering that maybe the construction itself might be the cause. 34 | 35 | --- 36 | 37 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 38 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/hw_index.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Introduction 8 | This hardware section covers the hardware topics like the mainboard, the printhead and so on. 9 | You'll find pictures and notes about the parts, how to disassemble or maintenace them and sometimes also suggestions for spare parts which could be used. Just click on the belonging chapter of the part where the desired part is located at, so e.g. in case you're looking for informations about the hotend, see the chapter "Printhead". 10 | 11 | If I found mods which seem meaningful to me and which fit in the certain area where the part is located at the printer, I'll list them at the end of the belonging chapter (like e.g. a link to an STL file of an upgraded fan duct can be found in the subchapter "Printhead" and so on). 12 | Mods or STL files which don't fit in a special 'area' of the printer that I made a subchapter about can be found in the subchapter "Other" (like e.g. raisers for the whole printer to stand higher). 13 | 14 | Because you're entering the hardware part right now, there is something I really want to recommend to you and I cannot emphasize it enough: 15 | *before you even start printing anything, check the whole construction first.* 16 | *Check the whole frame if everything is square, rectangular and perpendicular, check all screws, bolts, belts, wheels, electrical connectors - really just everything.* 17 | *And (really important): also disassemble the lead screw system, clean it and lubricate it and pay attention to vertical alignment when reassembling!* 18 | 19 | You might think now "Why should I waste my time with that? I assembled the **Go** by myself / I got the preassembled **Neo** and why should I even disassemble the lead screw system?!?" - and I understand that. 20 | Sure, you want to dive right into the beautiful ocean of 3D printing. And you will. But as with jumping into the unknown ocean from a cliff high above, you need to assure that everything is safe. And in this case with your new 3D printer it's actually not only that. 21 | The point is: even if you got the preassembled **Neo**, not everything might be assembled and mounted correctly. Some bolts or screws might not be tight enough or might be overtightened. The wheels might be too loose or too tight, same with the belts. 22 | And about the lead screw: just touch it. Does it feel kinda wet and oily, or does it feel more sticky and resinous instead? I'd bet it's more the last. And especially this will lead to a pretty quick wear out (in this case of the anti-backlash nut) and weird artifacts on your prints (due to the inconsistent movement) which will drive you crazy after hours of calibration prints. 23 | 24 | So - lean back, read the specific chapters and then grab your tools. 25 | Sooner or later you'll have to tinker anyway and by doing it right at the beginning of your journey you'll most likely be able to fix any possible hardware problem that occurs by yourself. 26 | No need to call Anycubic's warranty service to ask for a spare hotend because your nozzle is clogged or whatever (yes, I know, but people really do that..). 27 | No weeks of waiting until the part finally arrives and you realize that somebody has to take care of the tinkering part also. 28 | 29 | Get to know this machine and give it some love, then it'll pay you back with reliability and beautiful prints. 30 | 31 | Happy tinkering! 32 | 33 | --- 34 | 35 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 36 | 37 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/service-worker.js: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | // PWA Fire Bundle 3 | 4 | // after a service worker is installed and the user navigates to a different page or 5 | // refreshes,the service worker will begin to receive fetch events 6 | 7 | self.addEventListener('fetch', function(event) { 8 | event.respondWith(caches.open('cache').then(function(cache) { 9 | return cache.match(event.request).then(function(response) { 10 | console.log("cache request: " + event.request.url); 11 | var fetchPromise = fetch(event.request).then(function(networkResponse) { 12 | // if we got a response from the cache, update the cache 13 | console.log("fetch completed: " + event.request.url, networkResponse); 14 | if (networkResponse) { 15 | console.debug("updated cached page: " + event.request.url, networkResponse); 16 | cache.put(event.request, networkResponse.clone());} 17 | return networkResponse; 18 | }, function (event) { 19 | // rejected promise - just ignore it, we're offline! 20 | console.log("Error in fetch()", event); 21 | event.waitUntil( 22 | caches.open('cache').then(function(cache) { 23 | // our cache is named *cache* in the caches.open() above 24 | return cache.addAll 25 | ([ 26 | //cache.addAll(), takes a list of URLs, then fetches them from the server 27 | // and adds the response to the cache. 28 | // add your entire site to the cache- as in the code below; for offline access 29 | // If you have some build process for your site, perhaps that could 30 | // generate the list of possible URLs that a user might load. 31 | './', // do not remove this 32 | // '.', 33 | './index.html', //default 34 | // 'index.html', 35 | './index.html?homescreen=1', //default 36 | './?homescreen=1', //default 37 | './assets/css/style.scss',// configure as by your site ; just an example 38 | // 'index.html', 39 | 'printers.html', 40 | 'hardware/hw_index.html', 41 | 'hardware/mainboard.html', 42 | 'hardware/printhead.html', 43 | 'hardware/bed.html', 44 | 'hardware/powersupply.html', 45 | 'hardware/spare_parts.html', 46 | 'firmware/fw_marlin.html', 47 | 'firmware/fw_klipper.html', 48 | 'pro_set.html', 49 | 'gcode_doc.html', 50 | 'further_sources.html', 51 | './assets/images/*.{png,jpg,jpeg,JPG}',// choose images to keep offline; just an example 52 | // Do not replace/delete/edit the manifest.js paths below 53 | //These are links to the extenal social media buttons that should be cached; 54 | // we have used twitter's as an example 55 | // 'https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js', 56 | ]); 57 | }) 58 | ); 59 | }); 60 | // respond from the cache, or the network 61 | return response || fetchPromise; 62 | }); 63 | })); 64 | }); 65 | 66 | self.addEventListener('install', function(event) { 67 | // The promise that skipWaiting() returns can be safely ignored. 68 | self.skipWaiting(); 69 | console.log("Latest version installed!"); 70 | }); 71 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/spare_parts.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Spare Parts 8 | 9 | ## Spare Parts To Stock 10 | In the following I'll list those kind of parts I personally would suggest to stock. I'll mostly list parts which aren't that expensive and pretty much known to fail sooner or later. Some of them count as consumables (like nozzles or v-slot wheels for example) and I highly recommend to have at least one or two items of them on stock, others are parts which are nice to have to be on the safe side if anything breaks. 11 | 12 | However, it does make sense to check whether it's cheaper to get certain parts on their own or to buy a complete spare part. As an example I'd mention the parts of the printhead here. If you'll get the fans, the thermistor, cartridge heater, heater block, hotend etc. as individual parts it most likely makes more sense to get yourself a complete new printhead as a spare part right away. Of course you still should get nozzles and silicone socks anyway, but if you'd have to pay pretty much the same or even more for some individual parts as for a complete printhead, why should you buy individual parts then? Remember that the whole printhead also includes the feeder gear, the plastic cover, the metal plate, the stepper motor and so on. 13 | Anyway - even though it most likely makes more sense to buy a complete printhead to have all the parts stocked, I'll list the imho most important parts from that device also individually. 14 | 15 | Consumables which you'll definitely need (sooner or later): 16 | 17 | - Nozzle 18 | - PTFE tube (Neo) / bowden tube plus couplings (Go) 19 | - Silicone sock 20 | - V-slot wheel 21 | - Anti-backlash nut 22 | 23 | Good to have because they will most likely fail when you *really need* the printer to work: 24 | 25 | - Thermistor 26 | - Cartridge heater 27 | - Heater block 28 | - Heatbreak 29 | - Hotend 30 | - Belts 31 | - Heatsink fan / hotend fan 32 | - Part cooler fan 33 | - Part cooler fan duct (I'd recommend to print a better one than the stock one actually) 34 | 35 | Of course you can also stock motors, a lead screw, a mainboard, a power supply unit, a control unit and so on, but in case something like that breaks you might also have other, more severe problems. Due to the fact that those parts aren't the cheapest ones to get, you probably want to get them at the time you need them. 36 | 37 | ## Where To Get 38 | When you need to change certain parts or you need to fix them, check out the [Anycubic site](https://www.anycubic.com/collections/for-kobra-series) and watch out for the correct printer model if you can find what you're looking for. Keep in mind that besides the printhead and the hotend the parts from the **Go** and the **Neo** are interchangeable - you can even get a mainboard for the **Go** and use it in the **Neo** (and vice versa), if you install the belonging firmware onto it. 39 | However, there are only a few original spare parts available for the **Go** and the **Neo** at the time of writing this. But as you maybe read in the belonging sections, there are parts from other Kobra models sometimes which are just the same (e.g. the hotend from the Kobra and the Kobra **Neo**). 40 | 41 | There are also *many* vendors who sell compatible or even original spare parts, so just do a bit of a research. 42 | 43 | Also many parts from third party manufacturers can be used as most of the parts are common components of these kinds of machines. 44 | So if you're looking for parts like v-slot wheels, belts, anti-backlash nuts, nozzles or even a new lead screw or motor for example, keep in mind that those aren't 'specific' parts most of the time - they're pretty much regular components. 45 | Same goes for the hotend actually: as it's an E3D V5 compatible one, you don't need to necessarily buy a hotend from Anycubic if you need a new heater block or nozzle or whatever. 46 | Have a look at the spare part you need and do a little research if it really is something 'special' that pretty much only Anycubic or authorized sellers are offering (like the mainboard), or if that's a 'regular' component and therefore could be found easily. 47 | 48 | 49 | --- 50 | 51 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/filament_sensor.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Filament Sensor 8 | 9 | | Specifications | 10 | |:---------------| 11 | | Switch: NO (normally open) | 12 | | Voltage: 24V DC | 13 | | Connector: JST-XH 2.54 | 14 | 15 | 16 | The filament runout / break detection sensor available from Anycubic is optional, it doesn't come with the printer right away. 17 | 18 | The sensor is basically a switch inside a housing, which will be triggered and closes the contact when filament is fed through. 19 | The switch is NO (normally open) and the connector for plugging it into the mainboard's connector is a JST-XH2.54 (male, 2 pins). 20 | 21 | It is pretty much plug&play as it comes with the specific wires and plugs. 22 | 23 | ![Filament runout sensor](../assets/images/fil_sensor_web.jpg) 24 | 25 | 26 | ## Installation 27 | 28 | After stripping in the wires and lead them down to the mainboard, you then have to plug it into the corresponding socket which is this green two pinned one in the following picture. It's easy to find as it's the only one available. 29 | 30 | ![Connector for the filament sensor](../assets/images/filament_sensor_mb-socket_web.jpg) 31 | 32 | ![Zoomed connector](../assets/images/fil_sen_connector.png) 33 | 34 | See the chapter ["Mainboard"](mainboard.md#trigorilla-v_306-stock) for a picture of the whole mainboard for getting a better overview where the connector is located. 35 | 36 | After you connected and mounted the sensor, you lead the filament through it which then moves the little lever of the switch to trigger it and the electrical circuit will be closed. If the filament runs out because it broke or the spool is empty, the switch will open and the printer will pause. 37 | 38 | Anycubic has a more detailed installation instruction on their blog available, so maybe check that out as well if the installation procedure isn't clear yet: 39 | 40 | - [Installation at the **Go**](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/how-to-install-filament-runout-sensor-for-anycubic-kobra-go) 41 | - [Installation at the **Neo**](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/filament-sensor-upgrade-for-anycubic-kobra-neo) 42 | 43 | 44 | ## Spare Part 45 | 46 | You don't have to get this sensor directly from Anycubic (which is about 15 to 20 bucks there), as this is actually some kind of 'generic' sensor. You can find this type of sensor for really small money at AliExpress as well for example. Just pay attention to the wiring then and that you get the correct type of the two-pinned connector. 47 | 48 | 49 | ## False Positive Detections And How To Fix Them 50 | 51 | After using the filament runout sensor for a certain time, it may happen that you'll face false positive detections and therefore paused prints even though there was filament loaded. Imho this might be caused by slight variances in the filament's diameter, so that the lever doesn't trigger the switch suffienctly when the diameter of the filament partially becomes smaller. 52 | 53 | This might just be a small problem which probably could easily be fixed by bending the *top part* of the little lever of the switch (inside of the sensorbox) a bit more outwards, so that there's more pressure onto the filament. 54 | If you do so, make sure that you only bend it slightly *at the upper part* and that the lever still triggers the switch when you lead filament through it - you don't want to bend it too much and in a way that it won't be able to trigger the switch anymore. 55 | 56 | You can open the case with a small flathead screwdriver or a knife. Be careful and patient when doing so though, as there's some glue applied which needs some time to come off. 57 | The following picture shows the inside of the sensor so that you can see the little metallic lever of the switch. 58 | 59 | ![Filament runout sensor opened](../assets/images/fil-sensor_open_web.jpg) 60 | 61 | 62 | If bending the lever a bit more outwards doesn't solve your issue, use your multimeter and verify that the switch itself is actually still working correctly. If it's not and you do have some compressed air available (like in a can or if you have a compressor), try to blow into the switch a bit as it might be that some abrasion of filament got inside the switch and causing problems. 63 | If also that doesn't solve the issue and the switch still isn't working, you'll have to replace it. You could get yourself a spare switch and replace the broken one, or you can just get yourself a whole new filament runout sensor. 64 | 65 | --- 66 | 67 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 68 | 69 | 70 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /mkdocs.yml: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | # Project information 2 | site_name: KobraGoNeo Insights 3 | site_url: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/ 4 | site_author: Ulf Dieckmann 5 | site_description: Comprehensive information about Anycubic Kobra Go and Kobra Neo. 6 | 7 | # Repository 8 | repo_name: 1coderookie/KobraGoNeoInsights 9 | repo_url: https://github.com/1coderookie/KobraGoNeoInsights 10 | 11 | # Copyright 12 | copyright: Copyright © 2023-2025 Ulf Dieckmann [ 3dneo (at) quantentunnel.de ] | 3d printer icon created by Freepik - Flaticon
If you find this page useful, please consider recommending it to others. This will make the community aware of this page and help other users. Thank you! 13 | 14 | # CSS Stylesheet 15 | # extra_css: 16 | # - stylesheets/extra.css 17 | 18 | # Configuration 19 | theme: 20 | logo: assets/favicon.png 21 | favicon: assets/favicon.png 22 | name: material 23 | custom_dir: overrides 24 | 25 | # 404 page 26 | static_templates: 27 | - 404.html 28 | #- 404.md 29 | 30 | features: 31 | # - announce.dismiss 32 | # - content.action.edit 33 | # - content.action.view 34 | - content.code.annotate 35 | - content.code.copy 36 | # - content.tabs.link 37 | - content.tooltips 38 | # - header.autohide 39 | - navigation.expand 40 | - navigation.footer 41 | # - navigation.indexes 42 | # - navigation.instant 43 | - navigation.path 44 | # - navigation.prune 45 | - navigation.sections 46 | - navigation.tabs 47 | - navigation.tabs.sticky 48 | - navigation.top 49 | - navigation.tracking 50 | - search.highlight 51 | - search.share 52 | - search.suggest 53 | - toc.follow 54 | - toc.integrate 55 | palette: 56 | - scheme: default 57 | primary: brown 58 | accent: orange 59 | toggle: 60 | icon: material/brightness-7 61 | name: Switch to dark mode 62 | - scheme: slate 63 | primary: brown 64 | accent: orange 65 | toggle: 66 | icon: material/brightness-4 67 | name: Switch to light mode 68 | font: 69 | text: Roboto 70 | code: Roboto Mono 71 | favicon: assets/favicon.png 72 | icon: 73 | logo: logo 74 | 75 | 76 | # Plugins 77 | plugins: 78 | - search: 79 | lang: en 80 | separator: '[\s\-,:!=\[\]()"/]+|(?!\b)(?=[A-Z][a-z])|\.(?!\d)|&[lg]t;' 81 | - minify: 82 | minify_html: true 83 | 84 | # Extensions 85 | markdown_extensions: 86 | - abbr 87 | - admonition 88 | - attr_list 89 | - def_list 90 | - footnotes 91 | - md_in_html 92 | - toc: 93 | permalink: true 94 | - pymdownx.arithmatex: 95 | generic: true 96 | - pymdownx.betterem: 97 | smart_enable: all 98 | - pymdownx.caret 99 | - pymdownx.details 100 | - pymdownx.emoji: 101 | emoji_generator: !!python/name:materialx.emoji.to_svg 102 | emoji_index: !!python/name:materialx.emoji.twemoji 103 | - pymdownx.highlight: 104 | anchor_linenums: true 105 | - pymdownx.inlinehilite 106 | - pymdownx.keys 107 | - pymdownx.magiclink: 108 | repo_url_shorthand: true 109 | user: squidfunk 110 | repo: mkdocs-material 111 | - pymdownx.mark 112 | - pymdownx.smartsymbols 113 | - pymdownx.superfences: 114 | custom_fences: 115 | - name: mermaid 116 | class: mermaid 117 | format: !!python/name:pymdownx.superfences.fence_code_format 118 | - pymdownx.tabbed: 119 | alternate_style: true 120 | - pymdownx.tasklist: 121 | custom_checkbox: true 122 | - pymdownx.tilde 123 | 124 | 125 | # Page tree / navigation 126 | nav: 127 | - Home: 'index.md' 128 | - The Printers: 'printers.md' 129 | - Hardware: 130 | - Introduction: 'hardware/hw_index.md' 131 | - Frame: 'hardware/frame.md' 132 | - Axes: 'hardware/axes.md' 133 | - Bed: 'hardware/bed.md' 134 | - Printhead: 'hardware/printhead.md' 135 | - Mainboard: 'hardware/mainboard.md' 136 | - Power Supply Unit: 'hardware/powersupply.md' 137 | - Control Panel: 'hardware/control_panel.md' 138 | - Filament Sensor: 'hardware/filament_sensor.md' 139 | - Spare Parts: 'hardware/spare_parts.md' 140 | - Other: 'hardware/other.md' 141 | - Firmware: 142 | - Introduction: 'firmware/introduction.md' 143 | - Stock Firmware (Marlin Based): 'firmware/fw_marlin.md' 144 | - Klipper (MOD): 'firmware/fw_klipper.md' 145 | - Profiles & Slicers: 'profiles.md' 146 | - Calibration: 'calibration.md' 147 | - Troubleshooting: 'troubleshooting.md' 148 | - Maintenance: 'maintenance.md' 149 | - Printserver: 'printserver.md' 150 | - Tools: 'tools.md' 151 | - Further Sources: 'further_sources.md' 152 | 153 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/printers.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Printers 8 | The Anycubic [Kobra **Go**](https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers/products/kobra-go) and [Kobra **Neo**](https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers/products/kobra-neo) are pretty much identical FDM bed slinger printers, the only *real* difference seems to be the different type of extruder: 9 | 10 | - The Kobra **Go** uses a bowden drive extruder ([user manual Kobra **Go**](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Anycubic_Kobra_Go_User_Manual_221102_V0.0.4.pdf?v=1667812989)). 11 | - The Kobra **Neo** uses a direct drive extruder ([user manual Kobra **Neo**](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Anycubic_Kobra_Neo_20230109_V0.1.0_English.pdf?v=1673859391)). 12 | 13 | Here you can read a [blog article from Anycubic](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/kobra-neo-vs-kobra-go) where they compare both models. 14 | 15 | ??? tip "Be Aware Of Different Settings" 16 | 17 | Because of the different types of extruder systems you have to be aware of certain settings like in the slicer you're using and also in alternative firmware like Klipper. In both cases you need to keep an eye on the rectration distance - this is *very* important! 18 | 19 | *The profile (for the slicer) for the* ***Neo*** *Anycubic is offering has a* ***wrong*** *retraction distance set!* 20 | 21 | In general, the retraction distance at bowden drives like the **Go** is set to a higher value (up to ~6mm) than at direct drives like the **Neo** (up to ~1mm). The profile from Anycubic has this set to 6mm for the **Neo** as well though - you'll need to change that before starting to print! 22 | Please see the section ["Retraction Settings"](calibration.md#retraction-settings) for further information. 23 | This is also something you should keep in mind when you're asking in a forum and get tips from other users - they might not be correct when it comes down to retraction distance! 24 | 25 | 28 | 29 | The **Go** comes completely unmounted so you have to mount everything together by yourself. Therefore the price of the **Go** usually is a bit lower than the price of the **Neo**. 30 | The Kobra **Neo** comes pre-mounted, you only have to mount a few parts like the 'upstanding' frame onto the base frame. 31 | 32 | See [Anycubic's support page](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software) or [Anycubic's support page of the blog](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/news/all-you-need-to-know-about-kobra-series) of the Kobra series to find manuals, firmware, video tutorials and more of both the **Go** and the **Neo**. 33 | 34 | The following list gives an overview of the most important specifications: 35 | 36 | - Printing dimension: 250 x 220 x 220 mm (HxWxD) 37 | - Printing platform: 8.7 x 8.7inches / 220 x 220mm (*Attention: the physical dimensions of the bed and the PEI plate are 230x230mm!*) 38 | - Machine dimensions: 490 x 445 x 443 mm (plus filament holder mounted to the upper frame = approx. 630 mm height) 39 | - Machine weight: approx. 7.5 kg 40 | - Aluminum frame 41 | - X-axis and Y-axis: belt driven, belt tension can be adjusted by knobs 42 | - Z-axis: single threaded rod 43 | - Printing speed: ≤100 mm/s (Max speed) 44 | - Control panel: 2.4" LCD screen with a control knob 45 | - Mainboard: TriGorilla V_3.0.6, 32bit, 24V, TMC2208 silent stepper drivers (soldered), microSD card reader, USB-C connector 46 | - Extruder / feeder system: 47 | - Bowden separated at Kobra **Go** 48 | - Direct drive at Kobra **Neo** 49 | - Heated aluminum bed with a magnetic foil glued onto it, comes with a removable PEI-coated spring steel plate (one-sided coated at **Go**, double-sided coated at **Neo**); *physical dimensions: 230x230mm* 50 | - Hot bed temperature: ≤ 230 °F / 110 °C 51 | - Bed leveling: "Anycubic LeviQ", which is a 25-point bed level measuring process 52 | - Power supply: 400W, 24V DC output, suitable for 110V/230V AC input (set the correct voltage with a switch before using it!) 53 | - Printing material: PLA / ABS / PETG & TPU (optional housing recommended for certain material) 54 | - Single nozzle in a E3D **V5** type hotend, filament diameter 1.75 mm 55 | - Comes with a E3D V6 compatible 0.4 mm brass nozzle which is replaceable 56 | - Nozzle temperature: ≤ 500 °F / 260 °C 57 | - Optional filament run-out detection sensor 58 | 59 | 60 | | Kobra **Go** | Kobra **Neo** | 61 | |--------------|---------------| 62 | | ![Kobra Go](assets/images/printers_go_web.jpg) | ![Kobra Neo](assets/images/printers_neo_web.jpg) | 63 | 64 | 65 | --- 66 | 67 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 68 | 69 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/further_sources.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Further Sources Of Information 8 | In the following you'll find some further sources for certain kind of information mentioned. 9 | 10 | --- 11 | 12 | ## Anycubic 13 | Here of course the [Anycubic website](https://www.anycubic.com) has to be mentioned first. 14 | You can find [manuals and firmware](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software) at their support page. 15 | They also produced some video tutorials about e.g. changing the printhead or the mainboard for the **Go** and the **Neo**. You can find them at their [guide videos page](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/guide-videos). 16 | Pretty much all of these information are also available at their [blog page](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/news/all-you-need-to-know-about-kobra-series). 17 | Anycubic also set up a Wiki for their printers: [Wiki Kobra Go](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-go) and [Wiki Kobra Neo](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-neo). 18 | 19 | --- 20 | 21 | ## General Information 22 | There are many great websites and YouTube channels out there and if you're already into this whole 3D printing thing, you probably already have your favourites. So it's hard for me to recommend any. 23 | However, if you're new to this whole thing (or if you've never heard of one of the following), I'd recommend taking a look at the following sources: 24 | 25 | - [Website of All3DP](https://all3dp.com/) 26 | - [Website of Thomas Sanladerer aka "Tom's 3D"](https://toms3d.org/) and [his YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/thomassanladerer) 27 | - [Website of Stefan Herrmann aka "CNC Kitchen"](https://www.cnckitchen.com/) and [his YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/@CNCKitchen) 28 | - [Website of Angus Deveson aka "Maker's Muse"](https://www.makersmuse.com/) and [his YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/@MakersMuse) 29 | - [YouTube channel of Alex Kenis](https://www.youtube.com/@AlexKenis) 30 | - [Website of Michael aka "Teaching Tech"](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/) and [his YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/@TeachingTech) 31 | - [Website of Andrew Ellis aka "Ellis3DP"](https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/) 32 | - (more to come) 33 | 34 | --- 35 | 36 | ## 3D Models 37 | In the following I'll list some of the pages where you can search and find free 3D models. I only list those pages where you don't need a registration and where you can get free 3D models. 38 | Some of the following pages offer direct downloads (DD), others are search engines (SE). 39 | 40 | - **https://www.printables.com/en** (DD) 41 | This is my personal favourite - I'm [@Meowsketeer](https://www.printables.com/@Meowsketeer) there. 42 | I also set up collections with some models specifically for the [Kobra Go](https://www.printables.com/@Meowsketeer/collections/929540) and [Kobra Neo](https://www.printables.com/@Meowsketeer/collections/929539). I'll update those collections every now and then and add new models I'll come across and find useful. 43 | - https://www.thingiverse.com/ (DD) 44 | - https://www.myminifactory.com/ (DD) 45 | - https://cults3d.com/en/ (DD) 46 | - https://repables.com/ (DD) 47 | - https://www.youmagine.com/ (DD) 48 | - https://wago-creators.com/ (DD) 49 | - https://www.stlfinder.com/ (SE) 50 | - https://www.yeggi.com/ (SE) 51 | - https://3dmdb.com/ (SE) 52 | 53 | --- 54 | 55 | ## G-Code Documentation 56 | If you're new to this whole 3D printing world, then you might want to start reading the article from [All3DP: 3D Printer G-code Commands: Main List & Quick Tutorial](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-g-code-commands-list-tutorial/) to get an overview about what G-code is. 57 | 58 | For a complete reference of G-codes, you might want to have a look at the following 'official' sources. 59 | Of course there are countless sites to find which cover this topic, but the following ones are definitely the one I'd look up first. 60 | 61 | --- 62 | 63 | ### RepRap 64 | The first one to mention is the [RepRap Wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code), where you can find a general explanation about what G-code is, how it works and all the [G-commands](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G-commands). 65 | *Within the G-commands section and the specific commands you'll also see tables which firmware (Marlin/Klipper/RepRap/Repetier/Smoothie) supports the specific command.* 66 | 67 | --- 68 | 69 | ### Marlin 70 | The stock firmware is based on Marlin v2.0.x. You can find a complete G-code command reference at the belonging [Marlin website](https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/). 71 | 72 | --- 73 | 74 | ### Klipper 75 | Besides most of the standard G-code Klipper does support (Attention: it doesn't support *all* of the standard commands!), Klipper uses so called "extended" G-code commands and scripts/macros for general status and configuration. These extended commands start with a command which may be followed by one or more parameters. You can find the whole reference at the [Klipper documentation page about G-codes](https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html). 76 | 77 | --- 78 | 79 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 80 | 81 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/safari-pinned-tab.svg: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 8 | Created by potrace 1.14, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2017 9 | 10 | 12 | 37 | 71 | 78 | 79 | 80 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/assets/safari-pinned-tab.svg: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 8 | Created by potrace 1.14, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2017 9 | 10 | 12 | 37 | 71 | 78 | 79 | 80 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/assets/images/safari-pinned-tab.svg: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 8 | Created by potrace 1.14, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2017 9 | 10 | 12 | 37 | 71 | 78 | 79 | 80 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/index.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Welcome 8 | to my infosite about Anycubic's **Kobra Go** and **Kobra Neo**. 9 | 10 | Here you'll find specific information about both models as well as more general kind of information. 11 | 12 | I created this site to make it easier for users of these printers to get started, as well as to provide specific information on e.g. how to maintain the printers. 13 | 14 | --- 15 | 16 | Please make sure to **mind the (expandable) textboxes** as they contain valuable information! 17 | Depending on the color of the box, it's either a tip, information, instruction, question or warning you'll find in there: 18 | 19 | ??? tip "Tip" 20 | 21 | Like "Level the position of the ABL sensor in relation to the nozzle." 22 | 23 | ??? info "Information" 24 | 25 | Like "Information about nozzles in general." 26 | 27 | ??? example "Instruction" 28 | 29 | Like "How to disassemble the hotend." 30 | 31 | ??? warning "Warning" 32 | 33 | Textboxes which contain a warning will often be displayed being already extended to make sure the warning won't be overseen. 34 | 35 | ??? danger "Danger" 36 | 37 | Textboxes which contain a warning about a dangerous circumstance will often be displayed being already extended to make sure the warning won't be overseen. 38 | 39 | Please mind the **search field** in the header as well as the icon in the header for toggling between the bright and the dark mode of this site. 40 | 41 | **Please take your time and read attentively.** 42 | 43 | ***Happy tinkering and printing!*** 44 | 45 | --- 46 | 47 | *If you want to ***support my work***, you can do so by ***donating*** to [my ko-fi account](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51).* 48 | 49 | *If you own a Printables account, please consider **liking [my models](https://www.printables.com/@Meowsketeer)** (I'm trying to collect PrusaPoints.. ;) ).* 50 | 51 | *If you own a GitHub account, please consider ***starring*** [this repository](https://github.com/1coderookie/KobraGoNeoInsights).* 52 | 53 | *If you want to ***contribute*** an e.g. modification (aka "MOD") you did or an important information you found, please send me an [email](mailto:3dneo@quantentunnel.de) - please don't open Pull Requests!* 54 | 55 | *If you find this infosite useful, please consider ***recommending it*** to others. This will make the community aware of it and help other users.* 56 | 57 | *Thank you!* 58 | 59 | --- 60 | 61 | 62 | ??? info "Thanks To The Supporters And Contributers!" 63 | 64 | - *Thanks a lot to **Anthony** for donating a spare part printhead of the **Go** and the **Neo** for further investigations!* 65 | - *Thanks a lot to the **kind people who supported my work with a donation** to [my ko-fi account](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51)!* 66 | - *Thanks to the **stargazers** at GitHub for starring this repository!* 67 | - Thanks to **[aspiringnobody](https://github.com/aspiringnobody)** for reporting and providing the picture of the GC6609 stepper drivers being used! 68 | - Thanks to **[Balambao](https://www.reddit.com/user/Balambao)** for taking a picture of the ceramic heater block! 69 | - Thanks to **[BlackStab1337](https://www.reddit.com/user/BlackStab1337)** for taking a picture of the different V5 heater blocks! 70 | - Thanks to **[BlackSunBeast](https://www.reddit.com/user/BlackSunBeast)** for taking pictures of the feeder gear of the Go and the Go itself! 71 | - Thanks to **[Consistent_Leopard46](https://www.reddit.com/user/Consistent_Leopard46/)** for letting me use his picture of the faulty initial layer which illustrates the problem of a broken extruder motor wiring! 72 | - Thanks to **[Darth_Kram](https://www.reddit.com/user/Darth_Kram)** for disassembling the feeder gear box of the Go, taking those pics and measuring the dimensions of those parts! 73 | - Thanks to **[Due-Telephone-6817](https://www.reddit.com/user/Due-Telephone-6817)** for taking those pictures of the spider coupler and the diaphragm coupler! 74 | - Thanks to **[felixna](https://forum.drucktipps3d.de/user/6880-felixna/)** for allowing me to use his circuit drawing of how to add a step-down converter for PWM controlled fans! 75 | - Thanks to **[GruesomeJeans](https://www.reddit.com/user/GruesomeJeans)** for taking pictures of the spare parts of the bed, the magnetic foil, the mounted z-axis limit switch and the ruby tipped nozzle! 76 | - Thanks to **[Imaginary_Gift_8533](https://www.reddit.com/user/Imaginary_Gift_8533/)** for allowing me to use his picture of the wear & tear of his wheels! 77 | - Thanks to **[I_Sells_Drugs](https://www.reddit.com/user/I_Sells_Drugs/)** for taking pictures of his sheared off heatbreak! 78 | - Thanks to **[Island-Strange](https://www.reddit.com/user/Island-Strange/)** for taking a picture of his shortcut bed! 79 | - Thanks to **[Jaximus](https://www.reddit.com/user/Jaximus)** for allowing me to use the picture of the slipped out cartridge heater! 80 | - Thanks to **[JD154](https://github.com/JD154)** for the pics of and notes about the aluminum belt tensioners! 81 | - Thanks to **[jokubasver](https://github.com/jokubasver)** for taking that screenshot of the config settings for compiling the klipper.bin and for allowing me to use his picture of the stock control unit being used for KlipperScreen! 82 | - Thanks to **[McNeillTrevor](https://www.reddit.com/user/McNeillTrevor/)** for sharing his solution of using a Beacon3D probe at the Kobra Neo and allowing me to use his picture! 83 | - Thanks to **[MeckeMecke](https://www.reddit.com/user/MeckeMecke/)** for allowing me to use the picture of his direct drive mod for the Go using a Revo CR an an Orbiter V.2! 84 | - Thanks to **[mowerheimen](https://www.reddit.com/user/mowerheimen)** for allowing me to use the picture of the crooked x-axis gantry! 85 | - Thanks to **[Sad-Lie8181](https://www.reddit.com/user/Sad-Lie8181)** for taking a picture of his dual z-driven Neo! 86 | - Thanks to **[simpleman118](https://www.reddit.com/user/simpleman118)** for taking a picture of the ABL height gauge! 87 | - Thanks to **[the-transponster](https://www.reddit.com/user/the-transponster)** for allowing me to use the picture of his clumped hotend! 88 | - Thanks to **[Yoriko_Rayne_](https://www.reddit.com/user/Yoriko_Rayne_)** for allowing me to use the picture of how to use the ABL height gauge! 89 | - Thanks to **[zimmystor](https://www.reddit.com/user/zimmystor)** for taking pictures of his MicroSwiss bowden drive upgrade at his Go, of the stock heatbreak and of the TriGorilla V_3.0.7! 90 | - Thanks to **[zyssai](https://www.reddit.com/user/zyssai)** for allowing me to use the picture of the diassembled stepper motor! 91 | 92 | 93 | --- 94 | 95 | !!! warning "Disclaimer" 96 | 97 | - I'm not responsible in any way if *any* damage or harm occurs! 98 | - Please be aware of the fact that you use and/or transpose everything *at your own risk*! 99 | - It can't be guaranteed that everything is correct and that it wouldn't harm your printer or even yourself - keep in mind that I'm NO expert by all means! 100 | - All information, tips, instructions, suggestions, mods and so on which could be found here should be considered as a base for your own further research! 101 | - Neither am I resposible for any content that I've linked to, it's just meant to be a further source of information to make the start of your own research a bit easier! 102 | 103 | --- 104 | 105 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 106 | 107 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/profiles.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | 8 | # Printer Profiles & Slicers 9 | 10 | In the following you'll find some short notes on the most common Slicers Cura, PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer and some notes on printer profiles for these slicers. 11 | 12 | A slicer is a program you open your STL file with and which needs to be set up with a profile which contain the specific settings for your printer. 13 | When you open the STL file of the model you want to print, you then adjust some settings for how the printer should print the model (like speed, temperature etc.) and then you "slice" the model for getting the `.gcode` file generated, which then will be taken and processed by the printer. 14 | 15 | So no matter if you're using the stock firmware of the printer or if you're using Klipper, you always need a slicer. 16 | 17 | However, due to the fact that Klipper uses extended G-code and macros, there are a few things to be aware of. 18 | In the following I'll just go over the abovementioned slicers really quick as it would be too much to discuss the slicers in detail. You'll find many resources online though where you'll find more information about them. 19 | 20 | 21 | --- 22 | 23 | ## Printer Profiles 24 | 25 | The microSD card shipped with your printer should contain Cura profiles. If you don't have them, you can download them at [Anycubic's support page](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software) but I'll list and link to them further below also. 26 | 27 | However, these profiles don't seem to always work right away, even though it's a good start. The specific profile and settings may differ from printer to printer, even within the same model type. The settings like print speed, retraction settings, extruder and bed temperature etc. also depend on the type of material you want to use (e.g. PLA/ABS/PETG/TPU). But also for the same type of filament material like PLA the settings often need to be adjusted again if you're using filament of a different manufacturer or even just another spool or colour of the same brand. 28 | There are countless guides about this topic in general, so I'd recommend to dig into it deeper using your preferred sites or specific videos. 29 | 30 | There are users who offer their profiles for the Go and Neo, so that beginners have a better starting point if the stock ones don't seem to work for them. In the following I'll list them as far as I'm aware of them. Be aware though that you still have to check the settings and finetune them for your device. 31 | 32 | You can always set up your own custom profile in your slicer. Just pay attention to the general machine settings, like the bed size and so on. 33 | 34 | ??? tip "Set Up Filament Specific Profiles" 35 | 36 | When you're using more than one filament, it's a good idea to set up a profile for each spool of filament you have. So not only for the type of filament (like PLA, PETG etc.), but also for the different manufacturer, the colour and so on. It happens that you have to use slightly different settings even with the same type of filament from the same brand but just when using a different colour of it. 37 | 38 | ??? tip "Try PrusaSlicer" 39 | 40 | Many users seem to get better results when using PrusaSlicer instead of Cura (I personally switched to PrusaSlicer a long time ago and don't use Cura anymore, so I can't really judge it), so maybe give PrusaSlicer a try if you're using Cura. 41 | 42 | ??? tip "Using Klipper? Set G-Code Flavour To "Klipper"" 43 | 44 | If you're using Klipper, you should set the g-code flavour to "Klipper" accordingly if your slicer offers that function. 45 | In PrusaSlicer you can find this setting under "Printer Settings" -> "General" -> "Firmware" (you need to have "Expert" mode activated to get access to that option!). The following screenshot shows that setting. 46 | ![G-code flavour](assets/images/g-code_flavour.png) 47 | 48 | --- 49 | 50 | ### Go 51 | 52 | --- 53 | 54 | #### Official Profiles 55 | 56 | The following list links to the specific profiles from [Anycubic's firmware page](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software): 57 | 58 | - [PLA v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Go_suggested_parameters_for_PLA_V1.0.curaprofile?v=1669192042) 59 | - [ABS v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Go_suggested_parameters_for_ABS_V1.0.curaprofile?v=1669192041) 60 | - [TPU v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Go_suggested_parameters_for_TPU_V1.0.curaprofile?v=1669192041) 61 | 62 | --- 63 | 64 | #### Custom Profiles 65 | 66 | The following list links to profiles provided by users which I became aware of: 67 | 68 | - @[naturekid72](https://github.com/naturekid72) offers a profile for PrusaSlicer for the Kobra **Go**: [https://github.com/naturekid72/Anycubic-Kobra-Go---Prusa-Slicer-Config-Bundle](https://github.com/naturekid72/Anycubic-Kobra-Go---Prusa-Slicer-Config-Bundle) 69 | 70 | 71 | --- 72 | 73 | ### Neo 74 | 75 | --- 76 | 77 | #### Official Profiles 78 | 79 | The following list links to the specific profiles from [Anycubic's firmware page](https://www.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software): 80 | 81 | - [PLA v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Neo_Suggested_parameters_for_PLA_V1.curaprofile?v=1669192662) 82 | - [ABS v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Neo_Suggested_parameters_for_ABS_V1.curaprofile?v=1669192662) 83 | - [TPU v1.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Neo_Suggested_parameters_for_TPU_V1.curaprofile?v=1669192662) 84 | - [PETG v2.0](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Kobra_Neo_Suggested_parameters_for_PETG_V2.curaprofile?v=1669192662) 85 | 86 | !!! warning "Don't Use Anycubic's Profile Right Away!" 87 | 88 | Watch out if you're going to use the profile of Anycubic, the *retraction distance is set to 6mm there*, which is *way* too much for the direct drive system of the **Neo**! 89 | 6mm is more a setting for a bowden drive like the **Go**, direct drive systems are supposed to be used with retraction distance settings around/up to 1mm! Using 6mm will lead to clogging! 90 | *Always make sure to check this setting in general when using preconfigured profiles!* 91 | 92 | !!! warning "Better Don't Print The Owl.gcode!" 93 | 94 | It's advisable to *not* print the owl.gcode example with the **Neo** which Anycubic provides. In there the retraction distance is also set to 6mm, which is *way* too much for the direct drive of the **Neo**! Even tho people reported a great quality of this owl when they printed it, it'll most likely lead to clogging. 95 | 96 | --- 97 | 98 | #### Custom Profiles 99 | 100 | The following list links to profiles provided by users which I became aware of: 101 | 102 | - @[sclebo05](https://github.com/sclebo05) offers profiles for different slicers for the Kobra **Neo**: [https://github.com/sclebo05/KobraNeoProfiles](https://github.com/sclebo05/KobraNeoProfiles) 103 | 104 | --- 105 | 106 | ## Slicers 107 | In the following you'll find some short notes on the most common Slicers Cura, PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer. 108 | If I find the time, I'll add some screenshots as well, but I suggest to read around the web a bit for further information for the specific slicer you want to use or you're interested in. There are many comprehensive YouTube videos out there about this topic as well. 109 | 110 | --- 111 | 112 | ### Cura 113 | Cura is probably the most commonly known slicer. If you check support page of Anycubic or if you have a look at the content of the microSD card that was shipped with the printer, you'll find an *outdated* version of Cura and some printer profiles for it. My suggestion would be: *don't* use that outdated Cura version and *don't* use the profiles Anycubic offers, at least not without inspecting them (especially Neo users!). 114 | 115 | **Notes on Klipper** 116 | 117 | Even though Cura and Klipper work perfectly together, there are a few things to be aware of. 118 | Certain classic G-code commands aren't directly supported by Klipper as it uses extended G-code and scripts for certain things. As an example the G-code command `M0` (unconditional stop) isn't recognized by Klipper, you'd have to use the extended G-code command `PAUSE` for that. 119 | 120 | Also there are a few functions of Cura which should improve the print quality which interfere with Klipper's own approaches for that (like Pressure Advance or Input Shaping). 121 | 122 | You'll find a good overview of what to be aware of in the tutorial from [All3DP: Cura & Klipper: How to Make Them Work Together](https://www.all3dp.com/2/cura-klipper-tutorial). 123 | 124 | The latest version of Cura also offers the option to now set the G-code flavor to Klipper. 125 | However, there's also a ["Klipper Settings Plugin"](https://github.com/jjgraphix/KlipperSettingsPlugin) available which adds a category to Cura called "Klipper Settings" and offers Klipper specific settings and features. 126 | 127 | 128 | --- 129 | 130 | ### PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer 131 | PrusaSlicer and it derivates like SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer are my personal favourites after using Cura for some time. 132 | 133 | **Notes on Klipper** 134 | 135 | You can set the G-code flavor depending on the firmware of the printer (menu "Printer Settings") to "Klipper" as shown in the screenshot of SuperSlicer below, so it's already everything set up correctly within the G-code of the sliced files. 136 | ![SuperSlicer firmware](../assets/images/klipperfw_superslicer-flavor.png) 137 | In PrusaSlicer you can find this setting under "Printer Settings" -> "General" -> "Firmware" (you need to have "Expert" mode activated to get access to that option!). The following screenshot shows that setting. 138 | ![G-code flavour](assets/images/g-code_flavour.png) 139 | 140 | Of course all slicers have many functionalities to finetune and control the output - you can even choose between different patterns for the top layer finish. They're all pretty identical overall, yet they differ in certain functions. One of them being worth mentioned is a *handy set of calibration tools that comes with SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer*. This function actually guides you step by step through the calibration process and allows you to generate calibration models like temperature or retraction towers with individual settings by just a few clicks. 141 | 142 | Make sure to enable the optional "Arachne Engine" (Print Settings -> Perimeters) as it improves the quality of the printed parts. 143 | 144 | --- 145 | 146 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 147 | 148 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/maintenance.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Maintenance 8 | 9 | In the following, I'll list some steps for doing maintenance on a regular basis. I won't go into detail about e.g. how to position the v-slot wheels or how to change parts at the hotend, as you'll find notes and instructions about that in the belonging sections about the belonging parts. 10 | 11 | Generally speaking, this list is just some sort of a rough guideance you can follow where to keep an eye on. 12 | Due to the fact that parts are moving, vibrances occur and heat is being generated, parts will wear and tear and components may fail sooner or later. 13 | So it's advisable to keep an eye on the whole construction as well as on specific parts especially to avoid any malfunction as much as possible. 14 | 15 | The more you're using the printer, the more often and regular you should actually proceed these checks. Sooner or later it'll become a routine for you, so don't be overwhelmed by the following list. 16 | 17 | If you're using the machine not that often, you still should pay attention. In this case keep an extra eye on the v-slot wheels and their position and condition, as it may happen that they'll become indented due to resting in the same position over a longer time. You should be able to feel any dents when moving the wheels, but you probably have to be a bit sensitive for being able to tell that. 18 | 19 | 20 | *This is still WIP, so maybe come back another time as well.. ;)* 21 | 22 | 23 | ??? warning "Don't Use WD-40 For Lubrication" 24 | 25 | Do yourself a favour and *never* use WD-40 for *lubrication* as it's *not* a lubricant! 26 | It's perfectly fine for e.g. washing off old lubrification from the threaded rod, but it's *not* a sufficient lubrification like e.g. "Super Lube"! 27 | 28 | People use to think WD-40 is the perfect solution for pretty much everything, but they aren't aware of the fact that -due to the chemical recipe it's made of- it's absolutely not sufficient for getting parts lubed mid- to longterm. Fact is, that the chemicals inside of it will even wash off any grease or oil, it can harm POM and rubber and so on. 29 | 30 | As an example: 31 | So let's say you want to lubricate your bike chain and use WD-40 to do so, you'll basically *wash away* the existent lubrification which is inside the chain - therefore the chain will be worn out pretty quick. You'll also harm the sealings. 32 | If you don't believe me, make a little test by yourself: take an air baloon, pump it up, spray WD-40 onto it and wait.. 33 | 34 | 35 | --- 36 | 37 | ## Frame 38 | 39 | Check if all screws, bolts and nuts are still tight as they should be. 40 | These parts can come loose due to vibrations. 41 | If you encounter loose screws, bolts or nuts, it's a good idea to add some Loctite. 42 | In that case also check if the frame itself is still in the proper rectangular shape, that the z-axis frame is still mounted perpendicular and so on. 43 | 44 | --- 45 | 46 | ## Axes 47 | 48 | Check the axes if any visible damage of the belonging parts hits your eyes. 49 | Make sure everything is as tight as it should be, but still freely to move nice and smooth. 50 | 51 | --- 52 | 53 | ### X-Axis 54 | 55 | You should inspect the wheels and belts and the belonging parts like pulleys etc from time to time to make sure everything is in a good condition and nothing will suddenly break. 56 | 57 | **Belt** 58 | 59 | - Check the belt tension from time to time as it might wear out and lengthen a bit. 60 | - Check the teeth of the belt if they are still good looking or if they're worn out or if even some teeth are missing. 61 | - Check if you can see any cracks or other damage at the belt. 62 | 63 | **Pulleys** 64 | 65 | - Check the pulleys of the motors which are driving the belts. Are they also looking ok? Did they become loose on the motor shaft somehow? 66 | 67 | **Wheels** 68 | 69 | - Check the position of the wheels as well as the bolts and nuts are still being tight. 70 | - Do you see any debris? Clean it off. 71 | - Do you see any signs of heavy wear and tear like in the following picture? If so, check the position and pressure as well as if any damage (besides the wear&tear) is visible. 72 | ![Wheels wear & tear](assets/images/axes_wheels-weartear_web.jpeg) 73 | - Check if you can see or feel any dents at the wheels. 74 | - Check if the bearings still move nice and smooth or if you can feel any hiccups during movement. 75 | 76 | **Motor** 77 | 78 | - Is the motor still mounted firmly? 79 | - Is the bracket that holds the motor still straight as it should be, or is it maybe not due to too much belt tension being used? 80 | - Is the shaft of the motor still straight as it should be, or is it maybe not due to too much belt tension being used? 81 | - Is the pulley that is pressed onto the motor shaft still in place, in a good condition and is it still sitting tight on the shaft? 82 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 83 | 84 | **Limit Switch** 85 | 86 | - Is the limit switch still working? 87 | - Is it still mounted firmly as it should be? 88 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 89 | 90 | --- 91 | 92 | ### X-Axis Gantry 93 | 94 | You should inspect the wheels at those Y-shaped brackets and check if any sagging of the unsupported side of the gantry occurs. 95 | 96 | **Wheels** 97 | 98 | - Check the position of the wheels which are running along the z-axis rails as well as the bolts and nuts are still being tight. 99 | - Do you see any debris? Clean it off. 100 | - Do you see any signs of heavy wear and tear like in the following picture? If so, check the position and pressure as well as if any damage (besides the wear&tear) is visible. 101 | ![Wheels wear & tear](assets/images/axes_wheels-weartear_web.jpeg) 102 | - Check if you can see or feel any dents at the wheels. 103 | - Check if the bearings still move nice and smooth or if you can feel any hiccups during movement. 104 | 105 | **Y-Shaped Brackets** 106 | 107 | - Check if the brackets are still in the correct position so that the outer wheels rest in the v-slot of the rails equally. 108 | - Check if the screws where the brackets are mounted to the rail with are still tight. 109 | 110 | --- 111 | 112 | ### Y-Axis 113 | 114 | You should inspect the belts and the belonging parts like pulleys etc from time to time to make sure everything is in a good condition and nothing will suddenly break. 115 | 116 | **Belt** 117 | 118 | - Check the belt tension from time to time as it might wear out and lengthen a bit. 119 | - Check the teeth of the belt if they are still good looking or if they're worn out or if even some teeth are missing. 120 | - Check if you can see any cracks or other damage at the belt. 121 | 122 | **Pulleys** 123 | 124 | - Check the pulleys of the motors which are driving the belts. Are they also looking ok? Did they become loose on the motor shaft somehow? 125 | 126 | **Wheels** 127 | 128 | - Check the position of the wheels as well as the bolts and nuts are still being tight. 129 | - Do you see any debris? Clean it off. 130 | - Do you see any signs of heavy wear and tear like in the following picture? If so, check the position and pressure as well as if any damage (besides the wear&tear) is visible. 131 | ![Wheels wear & tear](assets/images/axes_wheels-weartear_web.jpeg) 132 | - Check if you can see or feel any dents at the wheels. 133 | - Check if the bearings still move nice and smooth or if you can feel any hiccups during movement. 134 | 135 | **Motor** 136 | 137 | - Is the motor still mounted firmly? 138 | - Is the bracket that holds the motor still straight as it should be, or is it maybe not due to too much belt tension being used? 139 | - Is the shaft of the motor still straight as it should be, or is it maybe not due to too much belt tension being used? 140 | - Is the pulley that is pressed onto the motor shaft still in place, in a good condition and is it still sitting tight on the shaft? 141 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 142 | 143 | **Limit Switch** 144 | 145 | - Is the limit switch still working? 146 | - Is it still mounted firmly as it should be? 147 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 148 | 149 | --- 150 | 151 | ### Z-Axis 152 | 153 | You should inspect the screw and the belonging parts like the anti-backlash nut, the motor coupler etc from time to time to make sure everything is in a good condition and nothing will suddenly break. 154 | 155 | **Lead Screw** 156 | 157 | - Is the lead screw still vertically aligned? 158 | - Is there any debris of the POM from the anti-backlash nut in the threads? 159 | - Is the screw still lubed? 160 | Clean off the old lubrification and add some new, I personally use "Super Lube" for this. 161 | 162 | 163 | **Anti-Backlash Nut** 164 | 165 | - Is it still tightly mounted to that metal bracket or did the screws become loose? 166 | - Is it still compressed? 167 | - Can you see any visible wear & tear of the POM inside of the anti-backlash nut? 168 | 169 | **Motor & Coupler** 170 | 171 | - Is the coupler which connects the shaft of the motor and the lead screw still tight? 172 | - Is the motor still mounted firmly? 173 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 174 | 175 | **Limit Switch** 176 | 177 | - Is the limit switch still working? 178 | - Is it still mounted firmly as it should be? 179 | Check both parts: the one at the frame and the little lever at the x-gantry. 180 | - Is the connection of the wire still fine? 181 | 182 | --- 183 | 184 | ## Printhead & Extruder 185 | 186 | You should check the printhead and the extruder from time to time as well. 187 | Also check if the part cooling fan as well as the heatsink cooling fan still work properly. 188 | 189 | **Extruder** 190 | 191 | - Is filament still being fed correctly? 192 | - Is the tension of the spring still correct? 193 | - Are the gears still clean or did any debris of filament build up? 194 | 195 | **Hotend** 196 | 197 | - Are all screws still tight? 198 | *Pay special attention to the grub/set screws at the heater block which hold the thermistor and cartridge heater in place!* 199 | - Are the screws that hold the heatbreak in the heatsink still tight or is the heatbreak somewhat loose in the heatsink? 200 | - Is the whole hotend still rigid and firmly mounted, or does anything appears to be somewhat loose and wobbles? Can anything be moved and twisted by hand? 201 | - Are the thermistor and the cartridge heater still in place? 202 | - Do you see any harmed insulation of the wires of the thermistor or cartridge heater, do you see any bare wires shining through? 203 | If so, get replacement parts and install them. 204 | - Do you see any melted filament around the top or the bottom of the heater block, right at the threads of the heatbreak and the nozzle? 205 | *If so, then don't start a printjob! You need to check the seating of both parts immediately!* 206 | Best would be to heat up the hotend, disassemble it, give everything a good cleaning and reassemble everything. 207 | Inspect the PTFE inliner of the heatbreak and make sure it's not melted, deformed or clogged and that it's cut straight. Best would be to replace it with a Capricorn XS tube right away. 208 | When reassembling and reinstalling the parts, make sure the nozzle and the heatbreak touch each other firmly in the block and make sure the PTFE inliner of the heatbreak sits flush against the bottom of the nozzle. Re-tighten the nozzle after heating up the hotend to ~250°C while holding the heater block in place with an adjustable wrench. 209 | - Is the nozzle clean and not yet worn out? 210 | - Is the silicone sock still ok, does it also still sit in the correct position? 211 | 212 | **Fans** 213 | 214 | - Are the part cooling fan and the heatsink cooling fan still working properly? 215 | - Are the screws which hold them in place still tight? 216 | - Are the blades of the fans clean, or did dust build up? If so, clean it off. 217 | - Can the fans rotate freely or is anything (e.g. wires, cable ties) hitting them? 218 | - Do you see any fine strings of filament being caught up somewhere in the fans? If so, clean them off. 219 | 220 | **ABL Sensor** 221 | 222 | - Is the sensor still in the correct position, or did the bracket maybe become loose and therefore the sensor sagged? 223 | - Does it still trigger when detecting metal? 224 | 225 | --- 226 | 227 | ## Bed 228 | 229 | **Gantry & Plate** 230 | 231 | - Is the bedgantry still stable, or does it wobble? 232 | - Are the screws which hold the bedplate onto the gantry still tight? 233 | - Is the magnetic foil still sticking fine everywhere, or is it coming up somewhere? 234 | Are any bubbles underneath the magnetic foil visible? 235 | - Is the PEI plate still fine or is it severly scratched or is the PEI coating severly harmed in a larger area? 236 | 237 | **Wiring** 238 | 239 | - Does the wiring still look good, or are any damages visible? 240 | - Is bare wire shining through the insulation? 241 | - Are any dark spots at the insulation visible or is insulation even already melted somewhere (mainly the 24V wires)? 242 | 243 | --- 244 | 245 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 246 | 247 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/powersupply.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Power Supply Unit 8 | 9 | | Specifications | 10 | |:---------------| 11 | | **Input Voltage**: 115V and 230V AC (choose the correct voltage by setting a switch before turning on the printer!) | 12 | | **Output Voltage**: 24V DC | 13 | | **Power Rating**: 400W, 17A max. | 14 | | **Fuse**: glass tube type, replaceable, located between the power plug and the power switch | 15 | | **Fan**: 24V, 0.10A, 60x60x15mm, model "Cheng Liang CHA6024RL-15B" | 16 | 17 | --- 18 | 19 | The printer comes with a 400W power supply unit which can take 110V and 230V AC as well. 20 | 21 | ![Sticker power supply front](../assets/images/powersupply_label_web.jpg) 22 | ![Sticker power supply itself](../assets/images/psu_label_web.jpg) 23 | 24 | The powerswitch and the plug are located at the left hand corner in the back at the side of the frame. There is also a fuse integrated in the powerswitch box which you can pull out and exchange if necessary. 25 | 26 | ![Powerswitch and fuse location](../assets/images/printer_fuse_web.jpg) 27 | 28 | !!! danger 29 | 30 | Before plugging in the powercord and switching on the printer, make sure that you set the little switch for choosing the voltage to the correct value! You can access it from the back of the printer and either set it to 110V or 230V - so make sure everything is set correctly first!
![Voltage switch](../assets/images/powersupply_voltage-switch_web.jpg) 31 | 32 | The housing of the power supply unit is mounted at the back of the base frame underneath the bed. You can spot it from the front when you move the bed completely to the back as the following picture shows. 33 | 34 | ![Housing underneath the bed](../assets/images/powersupply_case-front_web.jpg) 35 | 36 | The following picture shows the location of the PSU (in the back, without the metal cover) and the mainboard (in the front, without the plastic cover) at the **Neo**. 37 | 38 | ![Location PSU](../assets/images/neo_underside_mb-psu_web.jpg) 39 | 40 | 41 | !!! warning "Warning: Turn Off And Unplug The Machine Before Accessing The Connectors" 42 | 43 | It must be said at this point that you shouldn't access the PSU's connectors. 44 | However, *if* you have to do so, make sure that you switched it off AND that you have *unplugged it*! 45 | 46 | The following picture shows the connectors of the PSU with the three 115V/230V AC wires on the right side (L = brown, N = blue, earth = yellow/green) and the 24VDC on the left side (V+ = red and V- = black). 47 | 48 | ![Connectors PSU](../assets/images/PSU_connectors_labeled_web.jpg) 49 | 50 | On the very left side you can see a green LED and right next to it a white potentiometer. With this potentiometer you can adjust the output voltage - so if you measure the voltage at the 24V DC connectors and you don't have 24V there, you can adjust the voltage to the correct value. 51 | 52 | 53 | !!! warning "Warning: Don't Open The PSU - And IF So, Don't Touch Any Parts Inside" 54 | 55 | It must be said at this point that you shouldn't open the PSU. 56 | However, *if* you have to do so, make sure to *not touch* any parts on the inside! 57 | **There are capacitors built in which can give you severe eletrical shocks even if the machine isn't plugged in or switched on as they store electricity!** 58 | 59 | The following picture shows the PCB of the PSU - the fan isn't plugged in, the belonging connector is the white two-pin connector in the upper left edge area of the board. 60 | 61 | ![PSU open](../assets/images/psu_open_web.jpg) 62 | 63 | 64 | --- 65 | 66 | ## PSU Fan 67 | 68 | The fan is a 60x60x15mm, 24V, 0.10A type ("Cheng Liang CHA6024RL-15B"). 69 | 70 | ![PSU fan](../assets/images/psu_fan_web.jpg) 71 | 72 | 73 | --- 74 | 75 | ## MOD: Change The Cover Of The PSU Housing 76 | 77 | !!! warning "Warning: Don't Open The PSU - And IF So, Don't Touch Any Parts Inside" 78 | 79 | It must be said at this point that you shouldn't open the PSU. 80 | However, *if* you have to do so, make sure to *not touch* any parts on the inside! 81 | **There are capacitors built in which can give you severe eletrical shocks even if the machine isn't plugged in or switched on as they store electricity!** 82 | 83 | 84 | The fan of the PSU is pretty loud, so one of the first things one wants to change is probably to mount a different fan. The fan itself isn't actually that loud though, the noise is mostly created by the way the cover of the PSU housing inhibits the airflow. 85 | 86 | I found a model for a different cover, which was actually made for using a different (bigger) fan. I remixed it and closed that cutout for using the stock fan instead. 87 | For making sure that nothing will get through those bigger holes, I hot-glued a piece of mosquito net to it from the inside. Instead of drilling holes for the stock fan, I just used two of the existing holes and added some washers for making the screws clamp the fan to the cover. 88 | 89 | *You can find my version at Printables.com: [Anycubic Kobra Go/Neo PSU Cover (Stock Fan!)](https://www.printables.com/model/559590-anycubic-kobra-goneo-psu-cover-stock-fan)* 90 | 91 | 92 | The following picture shows the stock cover plate and the 'custom' one (yes, they are the same size, it just doesn't look like that on the picture). 93 | 94 | ![Stock vs custom lid](../assets/images/PSU_covers_web.jpg) 95 | 96 | The effect of changing the cover was actually massive, the noise reduction is tremendous - even with the stock fan being used. Suddenly I was able to clearly hear the part cooling fan kicking in when printing, I could barely notice that one before. 97 | I put a smartphone with an app for measuring the noise on the x-axis part of the baseframe, with the microphone facing the direction of the mounted PSU, then I turned on the printer (so that only the fan of the PSU was actually running). With the stock metal lid being installed it measured 66dB, with the modification it measured 49dB! 98 | 99 | The following picture shows the PSU mounted again. 100 | 101 | ![Modded PSU mounted](../assets/images/PSU_altcover-mounted_web.jpg) 102 | 103 | As this lid sticks out a few milimeters and the clearance is already pretty low with the stock setup, I raised the printer a bit by mounting slightly taller feet I had laying around. You can also print some risers which can be plugged onto the existing feet. 104 | If you do so and you're using Klipper and resonance compensation (aka Input Shaping), keep in mind that the vibrational behaviour will change and you therefore should execute a new resonance measurement. 105 | 106 | **UPDATE:** 107 | *Since most people apparently don't use the mosquito net and don't use additional washers to mount the fan, I made a new remix of the model where I added struts in the hexagon cutouts as well as two holes for mounting the stock fan.* 108 | ***This is the link of the new model: [Kobra 2 series PSU cover/lid (for stock fan and/or Noctua 6025) ](https://www.printables.com/model/783591-kobra-2-series-psu-coverlid-for-stock-fan-andor-no)*** 109 | 110 | The following picture shows the different versions. 111 | 112 | ![New vs old vs stock](../assets/images/PSU_cover_v2_mounted_web.jpg) 113 | 114 | The following picture shows the new version mounted. 115 | 116 | ![New version mounted](../assets/images/PSU_covers_v1-v2-stock_web.jpg) 117 | 118 | --- 119 | 120 | ## MOD: How To Add A Step-Down Converter For Using 12V Fans 121 | 122 | When you want to add components which need a different voltage than the 24VDC the PSU offers, you can do so by using a step-down converter (or a step-up converter if you need a higher voltage than 24VDC). Simply connect the IN of the converter to one of the free 24VDC connectors of the PSU, dial in the voltage you need and then connect the belonging part to the OUT of the converter. 123 | The following picture shows a typical "LM2596S" type step-down converter which can be used. 124 | 125 | ![Step-down](../assets/images/PSU_StepDown_web.jpg) 126 | 127 | 128 | However, when you want to use e.g. 12V fans which speeds are usually controlled by PWM of the mainboard, you have to connect them differently. The following drawing shows how to proceed in that case, so that the PWM will still work. 129 | 130 | !!! warning 131 | 132 | The following circuit diagram about how to connect a step-down converter wasn't tested by me yet. It's assumed that the mainboard controls the PWM of the fans by switching the belonging GND of the connector. 133 | 134 | ![Step-down converter wiring diagram](../assets/images/stepdown-wiring.png) 135 | 136 | 137 | !!! warning "Add An Additional Fuse" 138 | 139 | It is highly recommended to add a suitable fuse to the 24V line, right after the connector of the PSU. If your additional parts like the converter will fail, the fuse will melt - which can save you from burning down your house. 140 | 141 | --- 142 | 143 | ## MOD: Add Additional Fuses To The 24V DC Wiring 144 | 145 | It is highly recommended to add a fuse or a fusebox to each of the 24V lines. Pay attention to choose the correct 'size' of the fuse for the belonging part (ampere rating). 146 | Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a shortcut. 147 | 148 | (..need to add pic..) 149 | 150 | --- 151 | 152 | ## MOD: Add An External MOSFET 153 | 154 | It's advisable to add an external MOSFET for driving the heated bed (if you like, you can also add one for the heater cartridge as well of course). Even though the MOSFET on the mainboard is sufficient, it's an upgrade worth doing as it not only leads to the fact that the bed will be heated up slightly faster, but it also increases the security of the hole printer. 155 | The MOSFET of the mainboard doesn't have a heatsink and it *may* caused by overheating due to an excessive amount of current being drawn, especially when using higher bed temperatures. Due to the low clearance between the fan of the moainboard and the ground the printer stands on, the cooling isn't the best as well. When using an enclosure which then heats up as well, cooling gets even worse. 156 | If the board's MOSTFET dies, you most likely have to get a whole new mainboard then. Even though it's possible to solder a new one onto the board (if you're skilled to do that), additional components might have been harmed. 157 | To avoid that, it's therefore adviseable to add an external MOSFET which then takes the load - the one on the mainboard only acts as a signal for the external one to switch. 158 | 159 | The 24V DC of the PSU will be connected to the belonging connector of the external MOSFET. The 24V DC line from the heated bed screw terminals will be connected with the belonging connector of the external MOSFET and the 24V DC wires of the heated bed will then be connected to the outlet of the external MOSFET. When the mainboard switches the onboard MOSFET, it will then trigger the external one to switch and lead the current to the heated bed. 160 | There are a few external MOSFETs on the market, most of them only have a "signal" connector. When using a mainboard with a dedicated 'signal' connector for this, it's then connected to that one. When using a mainboard that doesn't have this 'signal' connector like the one being used at these printers, then it's said to connect the 24V from the bed's connector of the mainboard to that. 161 | 162 | I personally prefer a certain type of MOSFET which also offers a dedicated connector for the 24V line besides the 'signal' connector as shown in the following picture. 163 | 164 | ![MOSFET HW-300](../assets/images/MOSFET-HW300_web.jpg) 165 | 166 | The PSU and the wiring of the bedplate are connected to the belonging connectors shown in the following picture: 24V from the PSU belongs to the connector labeled as "Power", the 24V for the wiring of the bedplate belongs to the connector "Hotbed". 167 | 168 | ![MOSFET PSU & bed connectors](../assets/images/MOSFET_connectors2_web.jpg) 169 | 170 | The 24V of the bed's connector of the mainboard will then be connected to the belonging connector "Bed" at the MOSFET (positioned next to the connector labeled as "Sig"). 171 | 172 | ![MOSFET HW-300](../assets/images/MOSFET_connectors1_web.jpg) 173 | 174 | If you're using this kind (or a different kind) of MOSFET, you should check if the manufacturer actually added some thermal paste between the MOSFET and the heatsink - it wasn't the case at the ones I got as shown in the picture below, so that actually completely counteracts the whole installation and makes it obsolete. 175 | 176 | ![MOSFET disassembled](../assets/images/PSU_MOSFET_disassembled_web.jpg) 177 | 178 | 179 | !!! warning "Mind The Polarity" 180 | 181 | Pay attention to the polarity when connecting the components! 182 | 183 | !!! warning "Add An Additional Fuse" 184 | 185 | It is highly recommended to add a suitable fuse to the 24V line, right after the connector of the PSU. If your additional parts like the converter will fail, the fuse will melt - which can save you from burning down your house. 186 | 187 | The following picture shows the MOSFET being mounted to the rear left-hand side of the frame. I made an extension wire for the thermistor wires as well. 188 | 189 | As an additional benefit, now that it's mounted back there, the problem with the bed's wires being too short isn't given anymore. 190 | 191 | ![MOSFET mounted](../assets/images/psu_mosfet-mounted_web.jpg) 192 | 193 | 194 | --- 195 | 196 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 197 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /docs/hardware/mainboard.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | 2 | 3 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 4 | 5 | --- 6 | 7 | # Mainboard 8 | 9 | ## TriGorilla V_3.0.6 (Stock) 10 | 11 | The stock mainboard of both the **Go** and the **Neo** is the "TriGorilla V_3.0.6" - it's the same board, it's just flashed with the respective firmware of either model. 12 | 13 | It is a 32bit 24V mainboard with a Huada HC32F460 KCTA ARM Cortex-M4 with 192KB SRAM and 512KB Flash. 14 | The speed of the ARM chip is listed as 200MHz by the manufacturer. 15 | It offers a microSD card reader, a USB-C connector and a 10 pin connector for adding the control unit. 16 | The mainboard comes with TMC2208 silent stepper drivers *soldered* onto the board (so they can't be just swapped out!). 17 | 18 | ??? info "GC6609 stepper drivers being used as well!" 19 | 20 | It seems that Anycubic changed the stepper drivers from original TMC2208 to cheap 2208/2209 clones, called "GC6609". 21 | When exactly this change took place and whether it's a permanent solution or if only a certain batch of these mainboards have been populated with these kind of stepper drivers is unknown. It seems though that the mainboards which are equipped with these drivers are set up with silver heatsinks instead of black heatsinks. 22 | However, the following picture shows this stepper driver (you'd have to take off the heatsink to identify which specific type was being used at your mainboard - which I wouldn't recommend to do if you're just curious to know which one you have..). 23 | 24 | ![GC6609](../assets/images/board_GC6609-stepperdrivers_web.jpeg) 25 | 26 | I personally don't know anything about these drivers, but @aspiringnobody shared his knowledge and findings in [this discussion](https://github.com/1coderookie/KobraGoNeoInsights/discussions/13). If you know anything more, please reach out and contribute to the discussion! 27 | 28 | Thanks again to @aspiringnobody who came across this and reported it! 29 | 30 | 31 | ![Mainboard TriGorilla front](../assets/images/mainboard_front_web.jpg) 32 | 33 | ![Mainboard TriGorilla back](../assets/images/mainboard_back_web.jpg) 34 | 35 | ![Mainboard labeled](../assets/images/mainboard_complete_labeled_web.jpg) 36 | 37 | The microSD card reader slot and the USB-C connector can be accessed from at front of the printer, you find them at the right hand side of that black plastic aperture of the frame as shown in the picture below. 38 | 39 | ![microSD card slot and USB-C connector](../assets/images/printer_slot-USBc_web.jpg) 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | ??? danger "Add Ferrules To The 24V Wires!" 44 | 45 | **It's highly advisable to cut off the soldered tips of the wires without a plug (power supply and heated bed) and add ferrules to them.** 46 | 47 | When you are screwing down the soldered tip inside the clamp, the solder will get cracked a bit and may get deformed a bit as well. When the wire gets warm due to the current and the solder gets softer, the contact may become loose which could lead to malfunction or even cause fire in the last consequence. So it's always a good idea to just use proper ferrules.
![Ferrules instead of soldered tips](../assets/images/mainboard_ferrules_web.jpg) 48 | 49 | ??? danger "Avoid Short Circuits!" 50 | 51 | *Short circuits coming from the cartridge heater for example can/will damage your mainboard, so be careful to never cause a short circuit somehow!* 52 | 53 | A common misbehaviour is to clean the nozzle with a little brass brush during the print process or while everything is heating up. 54 | Also grabbing the heater block to e.g. change the nozzle while everything is heating up and electrical current is flowing is another common mistake. 55 | When using pliers to hold the heater block, the tips of the pliers may touch the contacts of the wires at the cartridge heater and you cause a short circuit. As a result you can/will get blown up part at the mainboard, like the melted part "D4" for example as shown in the picture below.
![Melted D4 caused by a short circuit](../assets/images/mainboard_melted-D4_web.jpg) 56 | 57 | *So always turn off the whole printer first to avoid a short circuit which will destroy your mainboard!* 58 | 59 | ??? warning "Use A USB Power Blocker" 60 | 61 | When connecting the printer to a computer or a Raspberry Pi, it is highly recommended to use an additional USB power blocker. 62 | By doing so, you make sure that neither the computer nor the mainboard will draw power through the USB-C connector from the other device. If you don't do so, it can harm your mainboard as well as your computer. 63 | 64 | As it's an fast and easy solution, you can get a device called "USB power blocker" for a few bucks. Attention: make sure to *not* get a "USB *data* blocker" though, it *has* to be a *power* blocker! 65 | This device will then be plugged between the USB connector of the computer and the actual USB-C cable. It still allows data to be transferred, but the 5V line isn't existent. The following pictures show such a device and how it's installed. 66 | 67 | ![USB power blocker](../assets/images/USB_powerblocker_web.jpg) 68 | 69 | ![USB power blocker installed](../assets/images/USB_powerblocker_2_web.jpg) 70 | 71 | However, you don't *have* to spend money on this item, as there are other ways to interrupt the 5V power line. For example, you can cut the 5V wire of your USB cable, you can solder a male and a female USB connector onto a little PCB and avoid making the 5V line connection or you can simply use some electric or Kapton tape and cover the belonging pin at the USB connector of the cable like shown in the following picture. 72 | 73 | ![USB pin tape attached](../assets/images/USB_taped5V_web.jpg) 74 | 75 | Keep in mind though that you have to pay attention that you *only* cover the 5V pin and that you have to make sure that the tape is still in place every time you plug in the cable after you unplugged it. 76 | 77 | 78 | ??? info "Red Glue Across All Connectors" 79 | 80 | When you look at the mainboard, you'll see some red glue spread across all connectors. That's just for securing the connnection. You can get that stuff off by carefully pulling it off. It works better if you warm up that stuff *a little bit* for making it more flexible, a hair dryer is good for that. It then becomes a bit softer and easier to be pulled off. Don't heat it up too much though as it'll become too soft then! 81 | You can also use a thin screwdriver to lift up a part of that stuff and then use some tweezers to grab it. 82 | 83 | However, be *very careful* to 84 | 85 | - not harm the mainboard by slipping off with the screwdriver or tweezer! 86 | - not overheat the mainboards of parts of it when heating up that red glue! 87 | - not rip off the heatsinks of the stepper drivers! 88 | This can happen really quick as they're just glued onto the stepper drivers with some thermal paste and the red glue is usually spread across the fins of the heatsinks as well! 89 | So *if* you have to pull off that stuff from those connectors of the motor wiring, then *make sure that you press down the heatsink with your finger when trying to pull that stuff off!* 90 | 91 | ??? tip "Need To Get A New Mainboard?" 92 | 93 | - As both the **Go** and the **Neo** use the same mainboard, you can just get yourself the mainboard for the **Go** if you e.g. own a **Neo** and can't get a mainboard for it (at the time of writing this, Anycubic only offers the mainboard for the **Go** in their shop) or if you find a seller but he charges more for the **Neo** version. You just need to flash the specific firmware for the **Neo** before using the printer. 94 | 95 | 96 | --- 97 | 98 | ## TriGorilla V_3.0.7 99 | 100 | User [zimmystor](https://www.reddit.com/user/zimmystor/) reported that at his Kobra Go a TriGorilla V_3.0.7 is being used. Besides a missing connector it's not clear what has been changed compared to the V_3.0.6 board - it seems that the MCU and pin assignments are the same though. 101 | 102 | ![TG v3.0.7](../assets/images/mainboard_mobo-GEN307_web.jpeg) 103 | 104 | --- 105 | 106 | ## Mainboard Cooling Fan 107 | 108 | The following picture shows the fan of the mainboard. It's a 70x70x15mm, 24V, 0.08A type ("Coolcox CC7015M24S"). 109 | 110 | ![MCU fan](../assets/images/fan-mainboard_web.jpg) 111 | 112 | --- 113 | 114 | ## MOD: Different Mainboard 115 | It's possible to replace the stock mainboard with a different type of board, like e.g. a board from BigTreeTech (BTT). You just have to pay attention that it uses and provides 24V DC as well, as the PSU and the components like the fans etc. are running on 24V. Depending on the type of the board, you might have to use a different ABL sensor (and most likely a different type of control unit as well though, but I assume you'll run Klipper on it then anyway). 116 | 117 | --- 118 | 119 | ### MOD: BTT SKR Pico 120 | Reddit user [sutabi](https://www.reddit.com/user/sutabi/) uses a BTT SKR Pico in his **Go**. You can find his post about it here: [Anycubic Kobra Go - BTT SKR Pico](https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/13xozgu/anycubic_kobra_go_btt_skr_pico/). 121 | He also offers his `printer.cfg` for the Pico in my [Klipper4KobraGoNeo repository](https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo) - many thanks for that! 122 | 123 | --- 124 | 125 | ### MOD: BTT Manta M4P + CB1 126 | Reddit user [Jurai_Probs](https://www.reddit.com/user/Jurai_Props/) uses a BTT Manta MP4 + CB1 in his **Go**. You can find his post about it here: [Kobra Go Klipper](https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/14zf6m6/kobra_go_klipper/). 127 | 128 | --- 129 | 130 | ## MOD: Add An External MOSFET 131 | 132 | It's advisable to add an external MOSFET for driving the heated bed (if you like, you can also add one for the heater cartridge as well of course). Even though the MOSFET on the mainboard is sufficient, it's an upgrade worth doing as it not only leads to the fact that the bed will be heated up slightly faster, but it also increases the security of the whole printer. 133 | The MOSFET of the mainboard doesn't have a heatsink and it *may* caused by overheating due to an excessive amount of current being drawn, especially when using higher bed temperatures. Due to the low clearance between the fan of the mainboard and the ground the printer stands on, the cooling isn't the best as well. When using an enclosure which then heats up as well, cooling gets even worse. 134 | If the board's MOSTFET dies, you most likely have to get a whole new mainboard then. Even though it's possible to solder a new one onto the board (if you're skilled to do that), additional components might have been harmed. 135 | To avoid that, it's therefore advisable to add an external MOSFET which then takes the load - the one on the mainboard only acts as a signal for the external one to switch. 136 | 137 | The 24V DC of the PSU will be connected to the belonging connector of the external MOSFET. The 24V DC line from the heated bed screw terminals will be connected with the belonging connector of the external MOSFET and the 24V DC wires of the heated bed will then be connected to the outlet of the external MOSFET. When the mainboard switches the onboard MOSFET, it will then trigger the external one to switch and lead the current to the heated bed. 138 | There are a few external MOSFETs on the market, most of them only have a "signal" connector. When using a mainboard with a dedicated 'signal' connector for this, it's then connected to that one. When using a mainboard that doesn't have this 'signal' connector like the one being used at these printers, then it's said to connect the 24V from the bed's connector of the mainboard to that. 139 | 140 | I personally prefer a certain type of MOSFET which also offers a dedicated connector for the 24V line besides the 'signal' connector as shown in the following picture. 141 | 142 | ![MOSFET HW-300](../assets/images/MOSFET-HW300_web.jpg) 143 | 144 | The PSU and the wiring of the bedplate are connected to the belonging connectors shown in the following picture: 24V from the PSU belongs to the connector labeled as "Power", the 24V for the wiring of the bedplate belongs to the connector "Hotbed". 145 | 146 | ![MOSFET PSU & bed connectors](../assets/images/MOSFET_connectors2_web.jpg) 147 | 148 | The 24V of the bed's connector of the mainboard will then be connected to the belonging connector "Bed" at the MOSFET (positioned next to the connector labeled as "Sig"). 149 | 150 | ![MOSFET HW-300](../assets/images/MOSFET_connectors1_web.jpg) 151 | 152 | If you're using this kind (or a different kind) of MOSFET, you should check if the manufacturer actually added some thermal paste between the MOSFET and the heatsink - it wasn't the case at the ones I got as shown in the picture below, so that actually completely counteracts the whole installation and makes it obsolete. 153 | 154 | ![MOSFET disassembled](../assets/images/PSU_MOSFET_disassembled_web.jpg) 155 | 156 | 157 | ??? warning "Mind The Polarity" 158 | 159 | Pay attention to the polarity when connecting the components! 160 | 161 | ??? warning "Add An Additional Fuse" 162 | 163 | It is highly recommended to add a suitable fuse to the 24V line, right after the connector of the PSU. If your additional parts like the converter will fail, the fuse will melt - which can save you from burning down your house. 164 | 165 | The following picture shows the MOSFET being mounted to the rear left-hand side of the frame. I made an extension wire for the thermistor wires as well. 166 | 167 | As an additional benefit, now that it's mounted back there, the problem with the bed's wires being too short isn't given anymore. 168 | 169 | ![MOSFET mounted](../assets/images/psu_mosfet-mounted_web.jpg) 170 | 171 | --- 172 | 173 | ## MOD: How To Add A Step-Down Converter For Using 12V Fans 174 | 175 | When you want to add components which need a different voltage than the 24VDC the PSU offers, you can do so by using a step-down converter (or a step-up converter if you need a higher voltage than 24VDC). Simply connect the IN of the converter to one of the free 24VDC connectors of the PSU, dial in the voltage you need and then connect the belonging part to the OUT of the converter. 176 | The following picture shows a typical "LM2596S" type step-down converter which can be used. 177 | 178 | ![Step-down](../assets/images/PSU_StepDown_web.jpg) 179 | 180 | 181 | However, when you want to use e.g. 12V fans which speeds are usually controlled by PWM of the mainboard, you have to connect them differently. The following drawing shows how to proceed in that case, so that the PWM will still work. 182 | 183 | !!! warning 184 | 185 | The following circuit diagram about how to connect a step-down converter wasn't tested by me yet. It's assumed that the mainboard controls the PWM of the fans by switching the belonging GND of the connector. 186 | 187 | ![Step-down converter wiring diagram](../assets/images/stepdown-wiring.png) 188 | 189 | 190 | !!! warning "Add An Additional Fuse" 191 | 192 | It is highly recommended to add a suitable fuse to the 24V line, right after the connector of the PSU. If your additional parts like the converter will fail, the fuse will melt - which can save you from burning down your house. 193 | 194 | --- 195 | 196 | ## MOD: Add Additional Fuses To The 24V DC Wiring 197 | 198 | It is highly recommended to add a fuse or a fusebox to each of the 24V lines. Pay attention to choose the correct 'size' of the fuse for the belonging part (ampere rating). 199 | Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a short circuit. 200 | 201 | (..need to add pic..) 202 | 203 | --- 204 | 205 | [![ko-fi](https://ko-fi.com/img/githubbutton_sm.svg)](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51) 206 | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------