├── 1W_Speaker_holder_3_x_3.stl ├── FAQs.md ├── LICENSE.md ├── Production_info.md ├── README.md ├── VIS_BOM.pdf ├── VIS_DMG_IPS_v5_bracket.stl ├── images ├── 1w_speaker.png ├── Battery_parts.png ├── USB_C_adapter.png ├── VIS_DMGs.jpg ├── VIS_DMGs_ON.jpg ├── VIS_audio_boards.png ├── VIS_ips_board.png ├── VIS_mainboard.png ├── VIS_power_board.png ├── audio_amp_on_off.png ├── boost_comps.png ├── button_fit.jpg ├── buttons_orientation.jpg ├── connections.png ├── corrupted_logo.png ├── desolder_gun_adapters.png ├── ips_front.png ├── ips_retro.png ├── j_front.png ├── j_retro.png ├── lipo_battery.jpg ├── m_front.png ├── m_retro.png ├── neg_voltage_comps.png ├── original_IPS_board.png ├── tal_front.png └── tal_retro.png └── troubleshooting.md /1W_Speaker_holder_3_x_3.stl: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- https://raw.githubusercontent.com/VISmodding/VIS_Game_Boy_DMG/a41bd8cdf2ed1053a6cc6e01973889cdca65931b/1W_Speaker_holder_3_x_3.stl -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /FAQs.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | ## Warning: OBSOLETE VERSION - If you don't plan to use the original DMG front PCB with the original screen I suggest to produce the DMG V2. Link [here](https://github.com/VISmodding/VIS-DMG-2.0/) 2 | 3 | # FAQs 4 | 5 | ## What IPS boards are compatible with the VIS front IPS PCB? 6 | 7 | My front PCB can be used to replace the following IPS board used in the v4 and v5 OSD IPS. 8 | 9 | ![image](images/original_IPS_board.png) 10 | 11 | ## What speaker can be used? 12 | 13 | You can use the original Gameboy speaker or 1 Watt 8 Ohm speaker (23 mm diameter) like the following one (**it must have + and - soldering points**) 14 | 15 | ![image](images/1w_speaker.png) 16 | 17 | ## Can the gain of the speaker be controlled? 18 | 19 | Yes, on the audio board, I use **R2=R4=10 kΩ for the original speaker** and **R2=R4=30 kΩ for the 1W speaker**. Hence, by increasing the value of R2 and R4, audio power increases; otherwise, it decreases. 20 | 21 | ## How much power does the power board provide? 22 | 23 | DC voltage or battery voltage is firstly regulated to 5V with 1A, and then, this 5v line is filtered with an ultra-low noise LDO (U4 on the power board) that provides in output a 5V line with 300 mA. This power is sufficient for all the features, but if you need a more powerful LDO, you can use, for example, the REG113NA-5/250 LDO that provides 400 mA. 24 | Clearly, this LDO is used only to achieve a filtered 5V line on the mainboard (unregulated negative voltage for the original LCD is produced after the first regulation to 5V at 1A), and these lines are totally independent from the battery charger. 25 | 26 | ## Has the Lipo power board all the protections? 27 | 28 | I put all the know protections for the battery so it won't overcharge, discharge, or have a short circuit. To do this, I used well know schematics and chip combinations to develop the Lipo board. 29 | 30 | ## What is the Lipo Battery to use? 31 | 32 | I suggest any 3.7V 125054 Lipo battery with a ph2.0 connector installed, as shown in the following image. 33 | 34 | ![image](images/lipo_battery.jpg) 35 | 36 | ## Has mainboard protection? 37 | 38 | Yes, there are resettable fuses in series to the battery, the DC line, and the unregulated voltage for the original LCD. In addition, also the boost converter and the LDO limit the current on the various lines. 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /LICENSE.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International 2 | 3 | Creative Commons Corporation ("Creative Commons") is not a law firm and 4 | does not provide legal services or legal advice. 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For the avoidance of doubt, this paragraph does not 341 | form part of the public licenses. 342 | 343 | Creative Commons may be contacted at creativecommons.org. 344 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /Production_info.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | ## Warning: OBSOLETE VERSION - If you don't plan to use the original DMG front PCB with the original screen I suggest to produce the DMG V2. Link [here](https://github.com/VISmodding/VIS-DMG-2.0/) 2 | 3 | # Production information 4 | 5 | ## Mainboard Gerber file 6 | 7 | Produce the mainboard Gerber file with 1 mm thickness (I suggest ENIG surface finish). Here you have 6 designs, and the various PCBs can be easily separated along holes. 8 | 9 | ![image](images/m_front.png) ![image](images/m_retro.png) 10 | 11 | ## DC jack holder Gerber file 12 | 13 | Produce the DC Jack holder Gerber file with 1.6 mm thickness. 14 | 15 | ![image](images/j_front.png) ![image](images/j_retro.png) 16 | 17 | ## Audio Jack raiser Gerber file 18 | 19 | Produce Audio Jack raiser Gerber file with 1.6 mm thickness. Here you have 4 designs that, once printed, must be separated (they are very fragile and break easily). 20 | I used a panelized Gerber file, and hence, when produced, you will have a lot of these very little boards. Since these boards are very small, when ordering, specify 21 | that you will accept all the risks during production. 22 | ![image](images/tal_front.png) ![image](images/tal_retro.png) 23 | 24 | ## IPS front PCB Gerber file 25 | 26 | Produce the IPS front PCB Gerber file with 1.2 mm thickness (I suggest ENIG surface finish). 27 | ![image](images/ips_front.png) ![image](images/ips_retro.png) 28 | 29 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /README.md: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | ## Warning: OBSOLETE VERSION - If you don't plan to use the original DMG front PCB with the original screen I suggest to produce the DMG V2. Link [here](https://github.com/VISmodding/VIS-DMG-2.0/) 2 | 3 | # VIS_Game_Boy_DMG 4 | ![image](images/VIS_DMGs.jpg) 5 | This project was born with the aim of saving corroded boards of **Gameboy DMGs** or **SNES Super Gameboy adapter**s. For this reason, I developed replacement PCBs by using modern electronic components. Several exisisting DMG mods are included: 6 | - **Lipo power board** that also provides the negative voltage required for the **original LCD** (this voltage can be turned off through a switch if an **IPS screen** is used). Thanks to a **brand new 2.5A DC jac**k, a lipo battery can be safely charged at 0.5 or 1 A. In addition, it is possible to **play while charging** by using only the current coming from the DC jack. 7 | - **Audio board** with all the audio circuits on it in which **1w speaker** or the **original speaker** is directly connected (Audio is not sent to the front PCB, and, for this reason, any power absorbing on the front PCB does not affect audio). Audio amplifier can be disabled to save battery life or to use only the pro-sound jack. 8 | - **Integrated bivert chip**. 9 | - I also developed a **replica of the OSD IPS (v4 or v5) board** with **button LEDs** and **tactile buttons**. 10 | - **Housing shell doesn't require any cut** apart from those required by the IPS LCD mod. 11 | 12 | Videos related to this project can be found on my [YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC17bQxOnCBejYQG4rzEg3jA). 13 | 14 | ## Warning: 15 | 16 | I have updated Gerber file of the mainboard to v1.1 on PCBway, in which an important fix has been done. If you have produced v1.0 of the mainboard, send me an email and I will tell you the fix that must be done. 17 | 18 | ## Disclaimer 19 | 20 | **This is a DIY project for electronic enthusiasts. For this reason, I am not responsible for any damage incurred while attempting this project or after completion of the project. You alone accept all risk since you are 100% liable for damage to yourself or your property.** 21 | 22 | ## Security information for Lipo Battery 23 | The battery is physically distant form the tp4056 linear charger. In addition, the following features are implemented: 24 | - Overcharge and overdischarge protections achieved through the widely used and widespread combo FS8205A - DW01A. 25 | - Load sharing: you can safely play while charging the battery since the battery is disconnected from the load while charging (I use the same circuit of SYF Game Gear since its creator allowed me to use it). 26 | 27 | ## Credits 28 | 29 | [Gekkio](https://github.com/Gekkio/) for the [DMG](https://github.com/Gekkio/gb-schematics/tree/main/DMG-CPU-06) schematics 30 | 31 | ## Switches/selectors 32 | 33 | Before assembling the console, the following switches or selectors must be properly set: 34 | - The switch on the mainboard to **turn ON/OFF the bivert chip**. 35 | - The selector on the mainboard to **use normal video or biverted video**. 36 | - The switch on the powerboard to **turn ON/OFF the negative voltage** required by the **original LCD**. 37 | - The selector on the powerboard to **set 0.5 A or 1 A charger**. 38 | - The switch on the IPS board to **turn ON/OFF the button LEDs**. 39 | 40 | Finally, from the battery compartment, it is possible to **ENABLE/DISABLE the audio amplifier** without opening the console. 41 | 42 | ## Required Donor parts 43 | 44 | In this project, the **strictly required donor parts** are only 45 | - the **CPU** (that can be sourced from a donor DMG mainboard or a SNES super Gameboy adapter). 46 | - the **link-port** (that can be sourced from a donor DMG mainboard or from a 4-player adapter DMG-07). 47 | 48 | Other **optional components to desolder** from a donor console are: 49 | - **RAM** chips (can be sourced from a donor DMG mainboard or a SNES super Gameboy adapter) or the Alliance AS6C6264-55SIN RAM chips can be purchased. 50 | - **Card slot connector, volume wheel, and quartz oscillator** can be sourced from a donor DMG mainboard or can be simply purchased on Aliexpress. 51 | - **Power switch** can be sourced from a donor DMG mainboard, or a brand new switch can be purchased at any electronic components shop (see BOM file). 52 | 53 | ## Required Parts to purchase or reuse 54 | 55 | - **All the electronic components** reported in the BOM file. 56 | - **Housing DMG shell case** (optional if you already have one). 57 | - **IPS LCD kit** (optional if you want to use the original front PCB). If you want to use the VIS front PCB, you have to buy the v4 or v5 OSD version (see the FAQs [here](FAQs.md) for more details). You can find (in the files of this project) the 3D model of the LCD bracket (IPS v5). You can simply 3D print it (I suggest transparent), and then you can prepare it with sandpaper and paint it with the color you need. This model of the bracket fully masks the entire LCD (it is useful if you use a transparent shell). 58 | - **3.7V 125054 Lipo battery** (optional if you want to use only the DC jack) (see the FAQs [here](FAQs.md) for more details). 59 | - **5V 2A USB-C charger** with a DC jack adapter (it is shown at the end of the instructions). 60 | - **Kitsch-Bent full silicone buttons** (optional). 61 | - **1 Watt speaker** (optional if you want to use the original DMG speaker). You can find (in the files of this project) the 3D model of the holder that you can use to take it in place without glue it to the housing shell. 62 | - **wires and ph2.0 housing connectors** reported in the last sections of the BOM file (optional since you can solder directly wires on the boards). 63 | - **flat connectors 21 pin pitch 1.25mm** if you don't find them you can simply buy the 22 pin version (clearly also a 22 pin cable) and use them by leaving unsoldered one pin on both the mainboard and the IPS board (in doing this you have to leave unsoldered the first pin on a board and the last pin of the other one). 64 | 65 | ## Production file 66 | 67 | Download/produce them from [PCBway](https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=35F93582-472C-4A) 68 | 69 | PCB from PCBWay 70 | 71 | Additional info [here](Production_info.md). 72 | 73 | ## Setup instructions 74 | 75 | The most **difficult parts** of the project are the following: 76 | - **Desolder** the components from the donor console by using a hot air gun. For this step, I suggest searching videos on youtube regarding the **SYF Game Gear** setup in which it is shown how to desolder the game gear CPU. Desoldering with a hot air gun became extremely easy if you use the adapters shown in the following image (search by using their codes on Aliexpress to find them). 77 | 78 | ![image](images/desolder_gun_adapters.png) 79 | 80 | - **Drag soldering** a 0.5 mm pitch SMD component. Also, in this case, you can refer to the videos made for the **SYF Game Gear** since solder the Game Gear single CPU version has the same type of difficulty. 81 | 82 | These instructions must be integrated by watching and following the youtube videos [presentation video](https://youtu.be/PxOyTZqpqn4) and [setup video](https://youtu.be/e4qCekoWYW4). 83 | 84 | First of all, you need to desolder a gameboy CPU from a gameboy DMG or from a super gameboy. Then, from a Gameboy DMG or from a DMG-07 adapter, you need to desolder the link port connector. 85 | 86 | *OPTIONAL: you can also desolder the power button (that can be reused or that can be internally restored), the 2 RAM chips, and the cartridge slot reader (both can be reused).* 87 | 88 | **IMPORTANT:** Please be sure that the following connections are properly made: 89 | 90 | ![image](images/connections.png) 91 | - **STEP 1** *(OPTIONAL): Restore the power button (see the setup video from 00:54 to 06:38)*. 92 | 93 | **Tip:** Differently from the video, you can use the brand new power switch directly (you find it in the BOM file) because a perfect combination between the original and the new switches is very hard to obtain. If you use the new button reported in the BOM file, firstly, it is not required to shorter the black plastic, and then, to make it all good, you can add a little tape, as shown in the following photos, to fit the space better. 94 | 95 | ![image](images/button_fit.jpg) 96 | - **STEP 2**: Populate the **power board** (see the setup video from 06:39 to 13:28). 97 | 98 | ![image](images/VIS_power_board.png) 99 | - **STEP 3**: Populate the **mainboard**. 100 | - First, start with the components required to test only the power board and the battery charging circuit (see the setup video from 13:28 to 19:45). 101 | - Then, test the power board and the battery charging circuit (see the setup video from 19:45 to 23:19). If the RED or GREEN LED doesn’t work probably, you have installed it in the wrong orientation. 102 | - Once verified that the previous steps are OK, you can populate the mainboard entirely in a standard way (check the setup video from 23:19 to 24:42 to understand how to solder some components in the correct location). 103 | - Check the installation and the various switches (see the presentation video from 03:11 to 05:00) without the audio board just to be sure that the first 2 boards are ok. NOT exceed 6v (I suggest using 5v) power supply; otherwise, you will fry the TP4056 charger chip (only this chip will be damaged if you provide a voltage until 24v.In any case, use 5v!!!). 104 | 105 | ![image](images/VIS_mainboard.png) 106 | - **STEP 4**: Populate the **audio board**. 107 | - Populate entirely the audio board paying attention to the inductances L1, L2, and L3 (they are very fragile). In addition, the location of the electrolytic capacitors must be very accurate. 108 | - Choose the R2, R4 resistors for the speaker that you want to use (the original 0.25w speaker or the 1w speaker). 109 | - Solder the 2 little PCB to add thickness (see the setup video from 25:03 to 28:58). 110 | - Optional (also populate the pro-sound board and solder its 2 little PCBs for the thickness). 111 | - Check the audio board and the switch on the mainboard to turn ON/OFF the audio amplifier (once assembled, the console this switch can be used from the battery compartment. This can be useful to save battery by disabling the audio amplifier or to use the pro-sound jack always by disabling the audio amplifier). 112 | 113 | ![image](images/VIS_audio_boards.png) 114 | - **STEP 5**: Populate the **IPS board**. 115 | - Firstly, you can populate the IPS board entirely by skipping soldering the button LEDS, the button resistors, and the contrast wheel (see the setup video from 28:58 to 29:55). Here on the power board, you can turn off the unregulated voltage required only with the original LCD. 116 | - Then, you can solder and test the contrast wheel (also required to change the settings of the IPS panel) (see the setup video from 29:55 to 33:30). In the video has been used an old version of the board having problems with the holes for the LED (now don’t worry about this since it has been fixed). 117 | - Then, you can install LED buttons, LED resistors, and the switch to turn ON/OFF these LEDs (see the setup video from 33:30 to 35:01). 118 | - Finally, test the buttons and their LEDs. 119 | 120 | ![image](images/VIS_ips_board.png) 121 | - Pay attention to the orientation of the tactile buttons (the circled part of the following image must stay on the left and right for all the tactiles and not on the upper or lower part). 122 | 123 | ![image](images/buttons_orientation.jpg) 124 | - **STEP 6**: Clean all the boards from flux and assembly the board (see the setup video from 36:28 to 42:20). Remember to properly set the switches for various options: bivert chip ON/OFF, normal video signal or biverted video signal, 0.5 A or 1 A charger, unregulated voltage (used only by the original LCD) ON/OFF, button LEDs on the IPS board ON/OFF. 125 | 126 | ![image](images/VIS_DMGs_ON.jpg) 127 | 128 | **WARNING** Don't do a bath of 15/30 minutes for the IPS board if tactiles are installed (keep them outside the IPA; otherwise, the glue that keep metal pieces will be dissolved and switches break). I solder the tactiles after the bath in IPA without using additional flux (I simply exploit the flux of the soldering tin). 129 | 130 | **SUGGESTED ITEMS**: I suggest using a 5v 2A USB-C charger with the adapter shown in the following image to play while charging at 1A. I suggest you buy a 125054 Lipo battery that has a perfect fit into the shell. 131 | 132 | ![image](images/USB_C_adapter.png) 133 | 134 | Finally, I suggest to use full silicone buttons from Kitsch-Bent as shown in this [short video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBGJTIemyE4&t=64s&ab_channel=V1sModding). 135 | 136 | **NOTE**: When you start to hear aliens coming from the speaker and the screen starts flashing, it means that you have to charge the battery. I have not disabled the CPU in this case to give you the time to attach the power supply without losing the game in progress!!! 137 | 138 | ## Material saving 139 | 140 | If you plan to use an IPS board: 141 | 142 | - you can skip solder/buy components for the -21V line required by the original LCD. These components on the power board are: F1, D3, D4, C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C19, U6, and TR1. Clearly, you can also skip soldering the switch that enables/disables this -21V line. 143 | - you can use a 1.25 mm pitch 22-pin FPC connector (on both mainboard and IPS PCB) and connect them with a 22 FFC-pin connector if you have a problem finding the 21-pin cables and connectors (clearly, when soldering, you will solder only 21 pins and one remain floating). 144 | 145 | ## FAQs 146 | 147 | link [here](FAQs.md). 148 | 149 | ## Troubleshooting 150 | 151 | link [here](troubleshooting.md). 152 | 153 | ## Acknowledgements 154 | 155 | I would like to thank Mathijs (the creator of SYF Game Gear PCBs) for his several suggestions, schematics, and help in this project. 156 | 157 | ## License 158 | Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. You are able to copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format, as well as remix, transform, or build upon the material for any purpose (even commercial) - but you **must** give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if any changes were made. 159 | 160 | ## Support VIS projects 161 | 162 | I have several stuffs in mind, but since developing these things has a high cost in materials and prototypes, a little [PayPal](https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=8XGWMZW3D3DQE) donation is appreciated. 163 | 164 | ## Contacts 165 | 166 | **email**: vis.modding@gmail.com
167 | 168 | **discord**: you can find me as *vis_modding* on several servers (BennVenn, Mouse Bit Lab, Retrosix modding, Game Boy, Gameboy makers, Cybdyn Systems, Pixel FX Official Discord, Modded Gameboy Club). 169 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /VIS_BOM.pdf: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- https://raw.githubusercontent.com/VISmodding/VIS_Game_Boy_DMG/a41bd8cdf2ed1053a6cc6e01973889cdca65931b/VIS_BOM.pdf -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /VIS_DMG_IPS_v5_bracket.stl: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- https://raw.githubusercontent.com/VISmodding/VIS_Game_Boy_DMG/a41bd8cdf2ed1053a6cc6e01973889cdca65931b/VIS_DMG_IPS_v5_bracket.stl -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /images/1w_speaker.png: 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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 | ## Warning: OBSOLETE VERSION - If you don't plan to use the original DMG front PCB with the original screen I suggest to produce the DMG V2. Link [here](https://github.com/VISmodding/VIS-DMG-2.0/) 2 | 3 | # Troubleshooting 4 | 5 | ## Gameboy turns on for just one second 6 | 7 | If you have used a SNES CPU and you turn on the Gameboy without a game inside, it is expected that it turns off if you are using the original 8 | front PCB or the IPS v4 kit (with IPS v5 it stays on also without a game inserted). 9 | 10 | ## No audio issue 11 | 12 | If you don't hear audio or strange audio be sure you have turned the amplifier ON (lower position). See the following image. 13 | 14 | ![image](images/audio_amp_on_off.png) 15 | 16 | ## No clean sound or audio coming from only one channel of the headphone 17 | 18 | Rework the soldering of the audio amplifier. Use an electrolytic capacitor for C1 on the mainboard as suggested in the BOM file. 19 | 20 | ## Battery not recognized or not properly charging 21 | 22 | Check D1, R11, Q1 components on the mainboard and check the following circled components on the mainboard and power board. 23 | 24 | ![image](images/Battery_parts.png) 25 | 26 | ## Not enough power 27 | 28 | If you don't have enough power, especially if the unregulated voltage is not stable while using the original LCD, you need to rework the boost converter 29 | and the LDO components on the power board (they are circled in the following image). 30 | 31 | ![image](images/boost_comps.png) 32 | 33 | ## Everything works well, but the original LCD is off 34 | 35 | Check firstly that the switch on the power board is set to ON; otherwise, check the circled components in the following image. 36 | 37 | ![image](images/neg_voltage_comps.png) 38 | 39 | ## The DC jack seems to be dead 40 | 41 | Check firstly the connections between the DC jack PCB and the mainboard and also check the F1 fuse on the mainboard. 42 | 43 | ## The Gameboy does not read any game and shows a corroded logo 44 | 45 | Rework the solder of the cartridge slot connector and the CPU pins, and the RAM pins circled in the following image. 46 | 47 | ![image](images/corrupted_logo.png) 48 | 49 | ## Buttons/Button LEDs problem 50 | 51 | Some button problems are known. For example, all buttons work, but the B button and left D-PAD not. This is a common problem caused by a wrong insertion of the 21 pins ribbon cable that causes the -21v line to reach the trace of these buttons. In this case, the CPU is fried (Please fully test the CPU before installing it). In any case, try to reflow the CPU. 52 | 53 | Other problems can be a general malfunction of the buttons (for example, buttons sometimes work and sometimes do not). Probably, in this case, you have to replace the FPC connector since it can be damaged, especially if you have bent it and you have inserted and removed it several times. Also, video issues can be related to a bad FPC connector. 54 | 55 | In addition, if you have installed tactile buttons, be sure of their orientation (check it in the read me section). 56 | 57 | Finally, if button LEDs are OFF, firstly, check if the switch on the IPS board is enabled. In this case, check if you have installed the resistors for the LEDs (those without the labels on the back of the IPS board). As a final check, be sure that LEDs are soldered in the right orientation. 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------