├── BA-4D
└── README.md
├── BN-1
└── README.md
└── README.md
/BA-4D/README.md:
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1 | # Sony BA-4D RGB Mod
2 | ### (KV-27S42, KV-27V42, KV-20M42, KV-13M42, etc)
3 |
4 | 
5 |
6 |
7 | RGB Mod for Sony BA-4D CRT televisions.
8 |
9 | Written by Brendan Eddy (FlyingFlygon). Credits to:
10 | * MarkOZLAD for method and diagrams
11 | * Syntax for method
12 | * John M, /u/Puzzleheaded-Sign-89, and /u/Alexz7767 for installation pictures
13 |
14 | ## Overview
15 |
16 | This mod uses the OSD mux circuit to combine the analog RGB signal produced by the television's On Screen Display (menus, etc) with the external RGB signal from your retro video game consoles. This method is newer than the legacy, outdated methods of snipping the existing circuits and injecting the console signals. The benefit of this method are 1) you can have the menu display on top of your RGB video, 2) no permanent damage is done to the TV and 3) it's easier.
17 |
18 | See following diagram for an overview of what this circuit looks like. (Note these chip names and pins are specific to the Sanyo set. Can be ignored for the purposes of this guide)
19 |
20 | 
21 |
22 | ##### Credit to Syntax and MarkOZLAD
23 |
24 | The BA-4D Sony sets have been successfully modified using the mux method for SCART input as well as BNC. If you choose to use BNC connectors, I recommend purchasing a BNC to S-Video adapter (if your set is one of the larger models, such as KV-27x) or a BNC to RCA adapter for the sync line. This is because it is much easier to use an existing video input on the TV for your RGB's sync signal than installing a 4th BNC line injected to the Y/C Jungle.
25 |
26 | ## Components Needed
27 |
28 | I will be detailing the mod using BNC connectors and an on/off switch. You can instead choose a SCART port that automatically switches using the 5V signal that should be provided from your RGB console. I have not done that myself, so I won't be giving a tutorial on that method yet.
29 |
30 | For this mod you will need:
31 | * Properly shielded wires (I chose 20AWG silicone wire, you can use smaller gauge however)
32 | * 3x 2400 Ohm resistors (assuming you use diodes, see next section)
33 | * 3x 1N4148 Logic diodes (assuming you use diodes, see next section)
34 | * 1x 1000 Ohm resistor
35 | * 3x 430 Ohm resistors
36 | * 3x 75 Ohm resistors
37 | * 1 SPDT (single pull, double throw) switch
38 | * 3 BNC chassis mount solder type female jacks
39 | * Your choice of adapter for sync line (In my case, I use BNC->S-Video for KV-27S42)
40 |
41 | ## Modification Steps
42 |
43 | In order to implement the mux circuit, we need to remove the existing resistors on the OSD's R, G, and B lines and replace them with the appropriate value resistors that can attenuate our signal to 0.7V. We will connect our external RGB lines to these new resistors. Also, we need to implement blanking by an external switch. We will throw 5V from the set to the OSD blanking line through an appropriate sized resistor.
44 |
45 | 
46 | 
47 |
48 | ##### Credit to MarkOZLAD
49 |
50 | Let's break that down step by step. (Note, sections marked with an asterisk * may have differences by model. Check next section).
51 |
52 | #### Pictures in steps 1-4 credit John M
53 |
54 | 1. Locate and remove the throughhole resistors R025, R026, and R027 between the Microcontroller (Micon) chip (IC001) and Y/C Jungle chip (IC301).
55 |
56 | 
57 |
58 |
59 | 2. Locate and remove the surface mount resistors R086, R087, and R088 on the underside of the board. *
60 |
61 | 
62 |
63 | 3. Replace the throughhole resistors with 2400 Ohm soldered to the 1N4148 diodes.
64 |
65 | 
66 |
67 | 4. Solder your R, G, and B wires to the leg of the diode closest to the Y/C Jungle (IC301). R025 is red, R026 is green, R027 is blue.
68 |
69 | 
70 |
71 | 5. Solder the other side of your RGB wires to a 430 Ohm resistor before reaching your external input (SCART/BNC etc). Terminate to ground by soldering the same end to a 75 Ohm resistor to ground. Here I use the tab on my BNC connectors for ground.
72 |
73 | 
74 |
75 |
76 | ### Note
77 | We came up with the 430 Ohm value through the following calculation:
78 |
79 | 
80 |
81 | If you choose to not use diodes, you can instead use a 330 Ohm resistor (assuming your resistor on the R, G, B lines is 2400 Ohm, which ours is).
82 |
83 | 
84 | ##### Credit to MarkOZLAD for formulas
85 |
86 | 6. Attach another wire to the side of surface mount resistor R028 that leads to D003. See schematic and example. This should go through a 1000 Ohm resistor * to match the voltage normally exiting R028. (NOTE: My picture here is the R028 on my KV-13M42, not the KV-27S42 in schematic and other pictures. However the location is very similar.)
87 |
88 | 
89 |
90 | 7. Attach a final wire to a 5V source on the board. An easy one in the same section of the board is the EEPROM chip (IC003). You can solder your wire to leg 8 like so.
91 |
92 | 
93 |
94 | 8. Solder your R028/OSD wire to the middle leg of the SPDT switch. This is where the switch pulls from. Solder your 5V wire to one of the legs, and leave the other leg untouched. This sends the 5V back to the OSD blanking circuit when switched on, and no additional voltage to existing blanking when switched off.
95 |
96 | 
97 |
98 | 9. Cut into the back case of your set to mount your connectors in a way that suits you. Here's how I ended up doing mine (a second time...) on my KV-27S42. Also for your consideration is /u/Puzzleheaded-Sign-89's implementation with a SCART port.
99 |
100 | 
101 |
102 | ## Differences by Model
103 |
104 | * Some models do not have the same resistor labels for the surface mount resistors on the OSD RGB lines. For example, my KV-13M42 has SMD resistors R087, R088, and R089. This is because R086 is only on 13-inch models KV-13M52 and KV-13M53. The resistors should be obvious from their location between the throughhole resistors, however.
105 | * On my KV-13M42, adding a 1000 Ohm resistor to the blanking line (which connects to the exiting side of R028) does not actually switch to RGB. User LuckyDay on the shmups forum [also confirmed this](https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1351379#p1351379). For now, I have removed the resistor and blanking to RGB mode works. I have also tried soldering to the entering side of a 680 Ohm SMD resistor and this works for blanking. This is not backed by calculation though, so your mileage may vary.
106 |
107 | ## Notes, Tips, and Tricks
108 |
109 | The following notes are in no particular order or grouping. These are just some things I encountered while modding that I think are useful to know or look into.
110 |
111 | * I have tried introducing JST-XM connectors to my R, G, and B and blanking lines so that I can disconnect the back case from the motherboard to open up the set. Unfortunately in my case, this introduced video noise that resulted in bowing shaky lines that scrolled down the screen. This is the same interference I found from using poorly shielded small gauge cables. However, /u/Alexz7767 on reddit implemented this to great success and found no interference. He details this method in [the imgur album here](https://imgur.com/gallery/86MwRVT). This is a very cool option to cleanly connect and disconnect your lines, but be warned it may cause video noise as in my experience.
112 | * It is recommended to use S-Video for sync on the larger models with a digital comb filter. This is because the composite sync shifts the image so far left that you cannot fully put it back with service menu adjustments. In the case of BNC, it's easy enough to use an adapter and feed your sync line through S-Video. If you choose SCART however, you can wire your sync line to the S-Video luma pin, but you will need to have the S-Video "active" circuit closed. One easy way to do this is use a dummy S-Video end plugged into the port.
113 | * On the smaller models with no S-Video, using composite for sync is fine because there is no digital comb filter. This results in a minimal left shift (same as using S-Video on larger models) which can be adjusted through service menu. Tested on KV-13M42.
114 |
115 | ## Sources and Further Readings
116 |
117 | * [MarkOZLAD's initial post on shmups RGB mod thread](https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1342960#p1342960)
118 | * [John M's post in CRT Collective Facebook Group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/444560212348840/posts/1087787041359484) with details and questions in the comments
119 |
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/BN-1/README.md:
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1 | # Sony BN-1 RGB Mod
2 | ### (KV-9PT50, KV-9PT60, etc)
3 |
4 | 
5 |
6 | RGB Mod for Sony BN-1 CRT televisions.
7 |
8 | Written by Brendan Eddy (FlyingFlygon). Credits to:
9 | * Stabarz for Y/C Jungle information
10 |
11 | ## Overview
12 |
13 | This RGB mod is noteworthy because it is _not_ a mux mod - meaning we are not going to be multiplexing our external RGB signal with the set's OSD RGB input. Instead, we can simply input our RGB signal to the Y/C jungle integrated circuit (IC301 CXA1465AS) directly. This is possible due to the jungle having unpopulated pins for RGB input and blanking. So the mod ends up being as simple as plugging your lines directly into those pins.
14 |
15 | 
16 |
17 |
18 | ## Components Needed
19 |
20 | Since there's no multiplexing, the only resistors needed are those for your blanking line and terminating to ground.
21 |
22 | * Properly shielded wires (I use 24 AWG)
23 | * 2x 1k Ohm resistors
24 | * 3x 75 Ohm resistors
25 | * 3x 0.1 uF ceramic capacitors
26 | * 1 SPDT switch
27 | * 3 BNC chassis mount solder type female jacks, or your materials for another input method - more on this later
28 | * Your choice of adapter for sync line (Most likely, BNC->RCA)
29 |
30 | ## Modification Steps
31 |
32 | This mod will be done in three distinct but related parts: wiring the RGB and ground lines, wiring the blanking lines, and installing the BNC connectors in the case.
33 |
34 | 1. First, disassemble the TV and disconnect the anode cap and other wires holding the board in place. On these sets, there are some wires on the neckboard that are permanently soldered on each end, so you won't likely be able to take it all apart. No worries - as it's easy enough to set it on its side with the tube face down.
35 |
36 | 
37 |
38 | 2. Solder a wire to a 5V source on the board. There are likely many places you can do so. I chose a leg of the Q607 transistor as the schematic states it outputs into the Set 5V circuit.
39 |
40 | 
41 |
42 | Route your wire from this transistor up to the input section of the case. You can poke it through some small holes near the tuner to keep it snug.
43 |
44 | 
45 |
46 | 3. Solder a wire to an audio/video ground pin and route it the same way.
47 |
48 | 
49 |
50 | 4. Identify and cut pins 15, 16, 17, and 18 of the Y/C Jungle chip (IC301 CXA1465AS). Alternatively, you can cut the traces on the other side or figure out a circuit to ensure the signal doesn't get grounded, but I just do the easy way and cut the pins.
51 |
52 | 
53 |
54 | ___
55 | ### Amendment
56 | ___
57 |
58 | Over a year later I got another 9PT50 and I decided to not cut the pins and instead cut the traces and isolate the pins on the PCB side. To do so, see the following pictures:
59 |
60 | 
61 | 
62 | 
63 | 
64 |
65 | With those pins isolated and identified, make sure to remove the two resistors that connect the RGB lines to ground and the blanking line to the stock circuit, respectively. Then you can continue on to part 5 below, just instead of soldering to the cut pins directly, you can solder them to their locations on the underside of the PCB. This way is a little bit more doable if you were ever to want to un-do this mod.
66 | ___
67 |
68 | 5. Solder your blanking, red, green, and blue wires to pins 15, 16, 17, and 18 respectively. (Note - this picture is from my PT60 while the rest are from my PT50. I forgot to take a picture for the latter, so I artistically corrected the color of the blanking line to ensure it matches with the rest of the pics. In my PT50 I actually soldered from above since it gives more clearance with the capactors next to the IC. Either way is fine.)
69 |
70 | 
71 |
72 | 6. Optional - crimp your wires to utilize quick connectors (JST). I chose to go this route so that I can keep a short run of wires and be able to disconnect the case once the mod is done. If you choose not to do this, you can skip this step and just have longer wires that can extend to your BNC connectors on the case.
73 |
74 | 
75 |
76 | 7. Your blanking circuit will involve the wire to pin 15 (yellow in my case) and the wire to the 5V regulator (white in my case). The 5V line will be the center pull of your switch, while the blanking line will be one of the throws. The other throw can be left unpopulated. I measured the voltage of the regulator and it came to about 5.6V, so I attenuated it with two 1k Ohm resistors to bring it down to a level I am more comfortable with. Honestly, I could have brought it down even more. Feel free to experiment with this and find what works best.
77 |
78 | 
79 |
80 | 8. Prepare your BNC connectors for the RGB line connection. This will involve the coupling capacitors, the terminating resistors, and attaching the ground line to the tabs of the connectors. I recommend you do this all before modifying the case so that you can test the mod first.
81 |
82 | Start with the ground tabs. I daisy chain them together with small wires, and connect one of them to the ground point we connected earlier (black wire). Also solder in the 75 Ohm resistors.
83 |
84 | 
85 |
86 | Next, you can solder the coupling capacitors and attach the 75 Ohm resistors to the video line.
87 |
88 | 
89 |
90 | Lastly, connect your red, green, and blue wires to each and test with your console. (I have no picture of testing). If everything looks good, disconnect the terminating resistors and the RGB lines so you can insert the BNC connectors into the case (step 10).
91 |
92 | ___
93 | ### Amendment
94 | ___
95 |
96 | Another option for an external connector is a TRRS 3.5mm headphone jack. I have performed this on my second 9PT50 with a little breakout board. This way, I can carry the red signal over the tip, the green signal over ring 1, the blue signal over ring 2, and ground on the sleeve (note I'm using another blue wire for ground here - had some extra). Sync will be carried over its own separate RCA into the composite input jack. See the following pics for the TRRS wiring and mounting. If you choose to go this route, it will replace the following steps.
97 |
98 | 
99 | 
100 | 
101 |
102 | Now that we have our signals mounted to a TRRS connector, it's time to convert them to something useful for 240p gaming. I have created two different input boxes - one using BNCs and a single RCA for RGB and sync, and the other using a SCART port for RGB, an RCA for sync, and two breakout RCAs for the audio being carried over SCART.
103 |
104 | Note that the wire colors for the TRRS are very different than color coded wires for SCART or BNC, so you'll need to keep track of which of your wires match up to which signal you want. The TRRS cable you buy should have a mapping of the wire colors. Also, my additional wire colors are just random based on what I had - do not use them as a denotation of what the pin is used for. Refer to EuroSCART pinout sheets as needed.
105 |
106 | 
107 | 
108 | 
109 |
110 | And with that, we are all done with the TRRS RGB mod!
111 |
112 | 
113 | 
114 |
115 | ___
116 |
117 |
118 | 9. Case modification will always be up to personal preference. In my opinion, I'm not too worried about cutting holes as long as it doesn't make a huge impact. For this reason I decided the rear corner of the case is an alright solution. I used a small drillbit to outline the circles for the BNC connectors, and a file to smooth it out. Same for the switch hole.
119 |
120 | 
121 |
122 | 10. Once you have decided on placement, you can install the switch and BNCs. If there's a snug enough fit, it should just be a matter of screwing them in. I opted to add some hot glue as well because my fitment wasn't perfect.
123 |
124 | 
125 |
126 | Once you have a tight fit, go ahead and resolder the 75 Ohm resistors to the video lines.
127 |
128 | 
129 |
130 | The last step is to resolder the RGB lines to the coupling capacitors. This is where having quick connectors is handy since you can move the case around and twist the wires as needed.
131 |
132 | 
133 |
134 | Finally, we can connect both ends of the mod and reassemble the set.
135 |
136 | 
137 |
138 | ## Differences by Model
139 |
140 | * The PT60 model is the higher-end of the two, with a larger power supply block sticking out from the board and a power cable that can be disconnected. I recommend disconnecting the cable as it makes maneuvering in a tight spot easier. But the rest of the mod is the same.
141 |
142 | ## Notes, Tips, and Tricks
143 |
144 | * Sync should be sent directly into the composite video port. If your cables are 4 BNC (one each for red, green, blue, and sync) you'll want to get a BNC to RCA adapter to be able to plug your sync line into the stock composite port.
145 | * Since composite is used for sync, there will be a small amount of left-shift in the image. You can enter the service menu and increase HPOS setting to account for this. _If the HPOS is at max and the image is still not centered,_ you can reduce the HFRQ setting to shift it some more. This should be the second option, as frequency should ideally be in the 70-80 range. But it should be fine lower.
146 |
147 | ## Sources and Further Readings
148 | * Stabarz' RGB mod for KV-13TR29 (etc) models, which uses the same jungle chip: https://imgur.com/a/Cq2Yngd
149 |
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/README.md:
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1 | # Sony CRT RGB Mods
2 |
3 | 
4 |
5 |
6 | Written by Brendan Eddy (FlyingFlygon)
7 |
8 | * For a guide on modding BA-4D chassis televisions (KV-27S42, KV-13M42, etc), see the [BA-4D folder](BA-4D/README.md).
9 |
10 | * For a guide on modding BN-1 chassis televisions (KV-9PT50, KV-9PT60, etc), see the [BN-1 folder](BN-1/README.md).
11 |
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