├── LICENSE
├── README.md
├── faqs.md
└── img
├── LED_1.jpg
├── LED_3.jpg
├── component_1.jpg
├── component_2.jpg
├── component_3.jpg
├── diode_soldered.jpg
├── diodes.jpg
├── encoder_1.jpg
├── finished_1.jpg
├── hotswap_1.jpg
├── hotswap_2.jpg
├── hotswap_soldered.jpg
├── oled_1.jpg
├── oled_2.jpg
├── pinout_1.JPG
├── promicro_0.jpg
├── promicro_2.jpg
├── promicro_soldered.jpg
├── qmk_toolbox_1.jpg
├── qmk_toolbox_2.jpg
└── topplate.jpg
/LICENSE:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 | MIT License
2 |
3 | Copyright (c) 2020 doodboard
4 |
5 | Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy
6 | of this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal
7 | in the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights
8 | to use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell
9 | copies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is
10 | furnished to do so, subject to the following conditions:
11 |
12 | The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all
13 | copies or substantial portions of the Software.
14 |
15 | THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR
16 | IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY,
17 | FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE
18 | AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER
19 | LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM,
20 | OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE
21 | SOFTWARE.
22 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/README.md:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 | # Build guide for R2/R3 duckboard
2 |
3 | Here is a comprehensive build guide for **R2/R3** duckboard, written by **doodboard**
4 |
5 | last update - July/6th/2021
6 |
7 | ## Table of Contents
8 |
9 | * [prerequisites](#prerequisites)
10 | * [components](#components)
11 | * [flashing](#flashing)
12 | * [LEDs](#leds)
13 | * [diodes](#diodes)
14 | * [hotswap sockets](#hotswap-sockets)
15 | * [ProMicro](#promicro)
16 | * [rotary encoder](#rotary-encoder)
17 | * [top plate](#top-plate)
18 | * [OLED](#oled)
19 | * [assembly](#final-assembly)
20 |
21 | You may also want to read the [FAQs](faqs.md).
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 | ## prerequisites
26 |
27 | There are some items you will need in order to build your duckboard.
28 |
29 | ### Required
30 |
31 | * A [soldering iron](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron) that can operate at or below 300° Celsius (572° Fahrenheit).
32 | * [Solder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder) to join the components to the PCB. The type of solder depends on your preference.
33 | * A small [Phillips](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Phillips) screwdriver. Size 1 works, as does size 0.
34 | * A willingness to do some soldering and assemble a duckboard!
35 |
36 | ### Optional but highly recommended
37 |
38 | * [Tweezers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweezers) for gripping the small components.
39 | * Some kind of desoldering tool, such as a solder wick (aka desoldering braid) or solder sucker (aka desoldering pump). This will be extremely helpful in case you make small mistakes along the way. Check out the tools in [this Wikipedia article](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desoldering#Tools) for more information.
40 | * [Flux](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)#Soldering) for certain techniques and making your job easier.
41 | * [Wire cutters](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers) that are flush-cutting. Flush-cutting is preferred as this will make it easier to get the cuts you need.
42 |
43 | ### Optional
44 |
45 | * If you want to customize the firmware, you will likely need to learn more about QMK. Please check out the [QMK documentation](https://docs.qmk.fm/) as that is out of scope of this tutorial.
46 | * If you are newer to soldering, you may want to check out a guide like the [Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering). This will help create [good solder joints](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/making-a-good-solder-joint) and identify and address [common soldering problems](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems).
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 | ## components
52 |
53 | ### A single duckboard kit includes the following:
54 |
55 | 
56 |
57 | | Label | Part name | Part quantity | Possible replacement (if needed) |
58 | |--------|-------------------|---------------|-----------------------------------|
59 | | **a** | Diode | 22 | 1N4148 THT Diode |
60 | | **b** | M2 16mm bolts | 4 | |
61 | | **b** | M2 nuts | 4 | |
62 | | **b** | Short standoffs | 4 | h: 4mm |
63 | | **b** | Long standoffs | 4 | h: 6mm |
64 | | **c** | LEDs | 8 | SK6812 3535 Mini (search Aliexpress) |
65 | | **d** | Hotswap sockets | 21 | Kailh hotswap sockets |
66 | | | | | |
67 | | **e** | Encoder knob | 1 | |
68 | | **f** | Rotary encoder | 1 | EC-11 Encoder |
69 | | | | | |
70 | | **g** | Top plate | 1 | |
71 | | **h** | PCB | 1 | |
72 | | **i** | Bottom plate | 1 | |
73 | | | | | |
74 | | **j** | Pro Micro | 1 | |
75 | | **k** | OLED | 1 | .91” 128px x 32px OLED (some may not work. BUY AT YOUR OWN RISK) |
76 |
77 |
78 |
79 |
80 | ### A single acrylics case kit includes the following:
81 |
82 | 
83 |
84 | | Label | Part name | Part quantity |
85 | |--------|---------------------------------|---------------|
86 | | **l** | Acrylics top plate | 1 |
87 | | **m** | Acrylics plate | 1 |
88 | | **n** | Acrylics boundary (small holes) | 1 |
89 | | **o** | Acrylics boundary (big holes) | 1 |
90 | | **p** | Acrylics bottom plate | 1 |
91 |
92 |
93 |
94 |
95 | 
96 |
97 | | Label | Part name | Part quantity |
98 | |--------|-------------------|---------------|
99 | | **q** | M3 16mm bolt | 4 |
100 | | **r** | M3 insert nuts | 4 |
101 |
102 |
103 |
104 |
105 | ## flashing
106 |
107 | ### Please flash and test your promicro before starting the build!
108 |
109 | You can download the **hex file** for R2/R3 duckboard [**here**](https://officialdoodboard.netlify.app/support/duckboard_R2_R3_default.hex)
110 |
111 | If you wish to compile your own hex file, you can grab the **source code** [**here**](https://github.com/doodboard/source-code)
112 |
113 | You can grab **QMK toolbox** from [**here**](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox)
114 |
115 | If you wish to use VIA, download the **hex file** for R2 duckboard (R3 duckboard can use R2 firmware) [**here**](https://caniusevia.com/docs/download_firmware)
116 |
117 | 
118 |
119 | 1. confirm you have downloaded and opened the **right HEX file** on qmk toolbox
120 | 2. MCU should be set to **"atmega32u4"**
121 | 3. check **Auto-Flash**
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 | Plug in your pro micro, and if it doesn't flash automatically, **short GND to RST on pro micro twice, fast.**
126 | Use a **tweezer** or **pliers** or anything else conductive.
127 |
128 | You should see the following if everything went successfully.
129 |
130 | 
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135 | ## LEDs
136 |
137 | ### Now we'll work on the LEDs. This is the *toughest* part of the build.
138 |
139 | The LEDs are SMD, meaning they are surface mounted as opposed to through hole mounted.
140 | Therefore, using **flux is highly recommended** as it helps solder to flow under the LEDs far more easily.
141 | I personally prefer flux paste, as opposed to flux pens, but it's up to personal preference.
142 |
143 | LEDs provide underglow to the duckboard. If you find it too frustrating, it's **alright** to forego the LEDs.
144 | **It won't affect the core functionality of duckboard as a macropad**
145 |
146 | 
147 |
148 | LEDs should be positioned as shown above, **the small black square inside the LED should line up with the small circle on the PCB**.
149 |
150 |
151 |
152 | [**This**](https://streamable.com/dimwli) is how I solder the LEDs.
153 | 1. apply flux to **both** the PCB and the LED with a brush
154 | 2. set the soldering iron to **300C** to prevent burning out the LEDs
155 | 3. place LED on the PCB. Make sure it's positioned** correctly** on the pads.
156 | 4. apply a **small** amount of solder to the soldering iron
157 | 5. make a short swiping motion **perpendicular** to the LED
158 | 6. repeat for all **4** pads.
159 |
160 |
161 |
162 | 
163 |
164 | The finished solder joints should look like the photo above. You are aiming for the **nice slope of solder**, not a blob.
165 | Please make sure you only make contact with the iron for **2-3 seconds** at a time. Longer exposure to heat can burn out the LED.
166 |
167 | In the case that you burn through even the extra LEDs provided, model number is **SK6812 3535 mini**.
168 |
169 |
170 |
171 |
172 | ## diodes
173 |
174 | ### Next step is installing the diodes.
175 |
176 | 
177 |
178 | Nothing fancy here. **Align the diodes as shown above**, and solder them in. I recommend using flux, but it's not required.
179 | There are total of **22** diodes to install: 21 for the 21 switches, and 1 for the push function of rotary encoder.
180 |
181 | If you plan to use stabilizers, pay extra attention to the diodes near stab housings.
182 | You should** clip the diode legs flush to the PCB** in order to prevent clearing issue.
183 |
184 | Here is an up-close image of what a soldered diode looks like:
185 |
186 | 
187 |
188 |
189 |
190 |
191 | ## hotswap sockets
192 |
193 | ### And now onto the hotswap sockets.
194 |
195 | 
196 |
197 | Again, nothing fancy here. Place the hotswap sockets into the PCB, following the guidelines.
198 | If you prefer to solder your switches directly to the PCB, you can skip this process, and solder in the switches later **after** installing the top plate.
199 | Depending on if you would like to use duckboard as **full 1u macropad**, or as **standard numpad**, you should solder your hotswap sockets **accordingly**.
200 |
201 | Here is an up-close image of what a soldered hotswap socket looks like:
202 |
203 | 
204 |
205 |
206 |
207 |
208 | ## ProMicro
209 |
210 | ### Now the real fun begins.
211 |
212 | 
213 |
214 | Again, I recommend using flux, but it's not required. Just makes your life a **little** easier.
215 |
216 | a) Solder the legs to ProMicro. Note the **longer side of the legs goes into the PCB**
217 | b) Solder the ProMicro to the PCB, and cut off the pins as much as you can, **without** damaging your solder joints.
218 |
219 | After soldering and trimming the pins, your Pro Micro should be attached to your PCB similar to this:
220 |
221 | 
222 |
223 |
224 |
225 |
226 | ### Now is the time to verify your soldering skills.
227 | Plug in your duckboard to your PC via **MicroUSB** cable.
228 | All **8** LEDs should light up by default. If only a few of them lights up, follow these steps:
229 |
230 | Start working from **LED_1**. The signal line for LEDs are connected in **serial** to help you debugging.
231 | For example, if none of your LEDs light up, try reflowing LED_1.
232 | If LED_1, 2 and 3 light up, but not 4, try reflowing LED_3 and 4 until 4 lights up.
233 |
234 | Default colour for LED is **RED** with default R2/R3 hex file. If some of your LEDs light up in different colour, it's due to **corrupted** signal caused by bad solder joints.
235 | If some of your LEDs work, but not in serial, so for instance LED_1, 2 and 8 light up, the same principle applies. Work on LED 2 and 3 until 3 lights up.
236 |
237 | 
238 |
239 | This is the schematic of the LED wiring for reference.
240 |
241 |
242 |
243 | 
244 |
245 | This is also the perfect time to test your **keypresses**. You can either plug in the switches to test the keystrokes, or manually short the hotswap sockets.
246 |
247 | Default hex file for R2/R3 has OLED enabled. ProMicro awaits return signal from OLED.
248 | So until the display is installed, keypresses will be **delayed**, and you'll have to hold down each keypress a little bit longer for it to register.
249 |
250 | To test without installing switches, short the **blue** circles if you have the **hotswap sockets** installed. Short the **yello** circles if you plan to solder the switches in **directly**.
251 |
252 |
253 |
254 | 
255 | If you have any issues, first make sure your LEDs and diodes are **oriented right**, then **check** your soldering joints to see if they all look OK.
256 | Here is a reference image in courtesy of **adafruit**.
257 |
258 |
259 |
260 |
261 | ## rotary encoder
262 |
263 | ### Fun fun fun!
264 |
265 | 
266 |
267 | No fancy tricks. Solder **7** spots circled above. Make sure the encoder is sitting **flush** to the PCB before you solder it.
268 | The two tabs in the middle are for **structural** purposes only. Apply solder generally.
269 | The thinner legs to the top and bottom are **malleable**. Bend them a little if they need to be in order to fit the PCB.
270 |
271 | You can also install the encoder knob now. **Align** the small screw to the flat face of encoder shaft. Screw it in for stability.
272 |
273 | Plug in the USB cable, and test rotation in both directions, and pressing the encoder shaft in.
274 | It should **increase/decrease** the volume, and **mute/unmute** your media player.
275 |
276 |
277 |
278 |
279 |
280 | ## top plate
281 |
282 | ### Almost time to wrap it all up!
283 |
284 | #### IF YOU WANT TO INSTALL ACRYLICS CASE, STOP AND CLICK BELOW
285 |
286 |
287 |
288 | CLICK ME
289 |
290 |
291 | 
292 |
293 | **Install stabilizers now** before moving on if you wish to use them. For 2u switches, I personally prefer the tactility of not having stabs installed, but that's just my personal opinion.
294 |
295 | Grab the acrylics plate labelled "l" and "m" above, and gauge where the OLED needs to be. Solder the OLED in place.
296 |
297 | Then insert 4 x popnuts to the bottom 2 plates. Be **gentle**. If too tight, push it in with a hot soldering iron. Do not apply excessive force or the plate might crack.
298 |
299 | Place the plate "m" on top of PCB. Slide the plate over the encoder. Note there is a **small metal tab** on the encoder. Manoeuvre around it.
300 |
301 | If you just can't fit the plate over the metal tab, take a **clean** soldering iron to the area of acrylic plate in contact with the metal tab, and gently push it.
302 |
303 | Your aim is to cleanly create a small gap for the metal tab to pass through.
304 |
305 | Install your switches. The PCB is held in place by the hotswap sockets and the switches. The force of pressing the switches are transferred directly to the acrylic case.
306 |
307 | Assemble with the rest of your acrylic plates and screw them in place. That's it, your are **done**. Install keycaps to your liking and type away!
308 |
309 | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
310 |
311 |
312 |
313 | 
314 |
315 | **Install stabilizers now** before moving on if you wish to use them. For 2u switches, I personally prefer the tactility of not having stabs installed, but that's just my personal opinion.
316 | Place the 4 screws into the plate, and screw in the **shorter** standoffs. Then place the top plate onto the PCB, and screw in the **longer** standoffs.
317 | You may find it easier to hold the standoffs with **pliers** while screwing them in place.
318 |
319 |
320 |
321 |
322 |
323 | ## OLED
324 |
325 | ### 4 last solder joints
326 |
327 | 
328 | **Remove the black plastic** from the OLED pins. Pull them out **gently** using your fingers or pliers if necessary.
329 |
330 | 
331 | Install the OLED in place. Make sure the OLED module is **parallel** to the top plate, and is **positioned correctly** before soldering into place.
332 |
333 | Plug in the USB cable once again at this point and ensure **everything** checks out. If you chose to solder the switchs in directly, now is the time to do so.
334 |
335 |
336 |
337 |
338 | ## final assembly
339 |
340 | ### FINISHED
341 |
342 | 
343 |
344 | Place the bottom plate in position and screw in the 4 x M2 nuts to finish off the build. **Install switches and keycaps to your liking, and type away**!
345 |
346 | [**Here**](https://i.imgur.com/bLKk2QL.jpg) is the default **keymap** for reference.
347 |
348 | [**Here**](img/pinout_1.JPG) is the pinout diagram for troubleshooting.
349 |
350 |
351 |
352 | Thank you so much for coming along this journey! R4 is planned for **JULY/AUGUST 2021**, I hope to see you guys again, **soon!**
353 |
354 |
355 |
356 | ## what's next?
357 |
358 | You can add your favourite stabilizers, switches, and keycaps! If you are interested in changing the default keymap or other functionality of the board, you may also want to learn about [QMK](https://docs.qmk.fm/) and use the [duckboard source code](https://github.com/doodboard/source-code).
359 |
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/faqs.md:
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1 | # Duckboard FAQs
2 |
3 | Please read the [main tutorial first](README.md).
4 |
5 | These FAQs are from the [doodboard Discord](https://discord.gg/UCEnxWk) by Adi.
6 |
7 | ## How do I flash my Pro Micro?
8 |
9 | Plug it in with a Micro-USB DATA CABLE (some cables just deliver power) to your computer. If it is a data cable, you should hear a sound that shows that it is connected. Navigate to the QMK toolbox and load the appropriate `.hex` file. Check the autoflash box. On the Pro Micro, short the GND and RST pads (they’re the ones next to each other) together with a metal object (tweezers or a piece of solder bent into a U shape work well) twice as fast as you can. You'll see text on the screen, and it should end with doodboard/duckboard connected.
10 |
11 | ## Is there a way to reset the Pro Micro after I assembled the board?
12 |
13 | If you haven’t flashed it already, then follow the steps from the previous question. If you have already flashed it, you should be able to reset it by navigating to the RGB layer and hitting the encoder knob.
14 |
15 | ## I soldered on the Pro Micro upside down! How do I remedy this?
16 |
17 | If your Pro Micro is soldered upside down, you have a couple options:
18 |
19 | 1. (Recommended) Desolder the Pro Micro, either with a desoldering pump, desoldering gun, or wick.
20 | 2. If the Pro Micro is simply on the wrong side of the PCB, it is possible to rig up a solution to allow duck operation in the FR4 sandwich case to make it work, such as omit the top plate entirely.
21 | 3. Keep in mind the Pro Micro does not have a symmetrical pinout. If it is soldered in a rotated fashion, your board will simply not work. You must desolder if this happens.
22 |
23 | ## My LEDs aren't working?
24 |
25 | All LEDs are wired in series. That means if LED 1 doesn't work, none of the LEDs work. 99% of the time, LEDs not working are going to be due to improper soldering. Watch the video linked in [the LED section of the build guide](README.md#leds) and reflow each LED, testing after each one to see how many work.
26 |
27 | ## Why are my keypresses delayed and laggy?
28 |
29 | Because you haven't soldered the OLED in. The OLED waits for a keypress to respond, so if there is no OLED, there will conflict within the firmware. If you want to use the duckboard without the OLED for whatever reason, disable it in [`rules.mk`](https://github.com/doodboard/source-code/blob/main/duckboard_R2/rules.mk).
30 |
31 | ## How do I change what appears on the OLED?
32 |
33 | In order to change the animation, you’re gonna need to turn a B/W image into a string of numbers. This website works: https://joric.github.io/qle/. Edit it in [`keymap.c`](https://github.com/doodboard/source-code/blob/main/duckboard_R2/keymaps/default/keymap.c), and keep in mind the stock duck is 32x32 pixels and has 2 images.
34 |
35 | ## How do I make my own firmware?
36 |
37 | To make your own firmware, or edit the preexisting one, you’ll need to have a code environment set up. Follow the QMK getting started doc here: https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/tutorial/newbs_getting_started. The basic applications you’ll need installed are: Python, MSYS, and a text editor of your choosing.
38 |
39 | ## My LEDs light up different colors/My LEDs aren’t red by default?
40 |
41 | If your LEDs light up different colors, it’s due to the data pads on them being badly soldered. Each LED has 4 pads: `VCC` (power) `GROUND`, `DATA IN`, and `DATA OUT`. Discolored LEDs are due to the `DATA IN`/`OUT` pads having some kind of problem. Start with the first LED that is discolored (default for R2 firmware is red) and reflow the joints.
42 |
43 | ## My LEDs are all white/How do I change the colors?
44 |
45 | This happens when the saturation on the board is turned up all the way. Navigate to the RGB layer (layout can be seen [here](https://i.imgur.com/bLKk2QL.jpg)) and hit the `RGB_SAT-` button a number of times. This will lower the saturation. After that is done, you should be able to change the colors of the LEDs by using `RGB_HUE-` and `RGB_HUE+`.
46 |
47 | ## My keypresses don’t work?
48 |
49 | Follow this checklist to make your keypresses work:
50 | 1. Are your diodes installed? If so, are the black bars on them on the right side? The diodes are not reversible.
51 | 2. Are your Kailh hotswap sockets properly installed? They should be adhering to the cutout and should not have any balls of solder between the two bars.
52 | 3. Is your Pro Micro flashed? If not, go to the first question on the FAQ.
53 | 4. Are your switches properly installed? Reseat if needed.
54 |
55 | ## Do I need all the diodes?
56 |
57 | It is recommended to put all the diodes in, even if you are doing the 18 key layout.
58 |
59 | ## The knob for the rotary encoder is really loose. Is it supposed to be like that?/ What screw do I use?
60 |
61 | There is a tiny screw on the encoder which you need a T8 Torx or 2mm Allen key to fasten it. You can also put your own knob on if you have one.
62 |
63 | ## How do I get USB-C on my Duckboard?
64 |
65 | In order to get a USB-C on the Duckboard, you’ll need to purchase a Pro Micro drop-in replacement that has USB-C separately. Some popular ones include Elite C’s, Nice!Nano’s, and BIT-C.
66 |
67 | ## My USB port broke! What should I do?
68 |
69 | The USB port is probably the biggest shortcoming of the Pro Micro. If excessive force upwards is applied, it will easily break. To stop this, only lateral force should be applied, and you should take extra care when removing the cable. If yours has broken and you are an extremely proficient solderer, you can try desoldering the Pro Micro, resoldering the port, and soldering it back in. The likely better option is to desolder the Pro Micro, and order another one (or a USB-C replacement) and solder it onto the duckboard.
70 |
71 | ## There is so much flux residue on my board. Is there any way to clean it?
72 |
73 | Using a static safe brush and some 99% isopropyl alcohol will easily clean that all off.
74 |
75 | ## Does the default hex work for both the 18 key and 21 key layouts?
76 |
77 | Yes, remember to use the [hex for the R2](https://officialdoodboard.netlify.app/support/duckboard_R2_default.hex) layout from [dood’s website](https://doodboard.xyz/pages/support).
78 |
79 | ## I broke some/lost parts! What should I order?
80 |
81 | * LED: SK6812 3545 Mini (Aliexpress may be your best bet :/)
82 | * Diode: 1N4148 THT Diode
83 | * Encoder: EC-11 Encoder
84 | * OLED: The OlED is a .91” 128px x 32px OLED. Some may not work with the Duckboard, buy at your own risk.
85 | * Hotswap sockets: Kailh hotswap sockets
86 | * Screws: M2 Screws
87 | * Nuts
88 | * Standoffs
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/img/hotswap_2.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/hotswap_2.jpg
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/img/hotswap_soldered.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/hotswap_soldered.jpg
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/img/oled_1.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/oled_1.jpg
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/img/oled_2.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/oled_2.jpg
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/img/pinout_1.JPG:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/pinout_1.JPG
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/img/promicro_0.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/promicro_0.jpg
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/img/promicro_2.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/promicro_2.jpg
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/img/promicro_soldered.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/promicro_soldered.jpg
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/img/qmk_toolbox_1.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/qmk_toolbox_1.jpg
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/img/qmk_toolbox_2.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/qmk_toolbox_2.jpg
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/img/topplate.jpg:
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https://raw.githubusercontent.com/doodboard/tutorial/9be6c00557d06723d84407294dd184b3d572f30b/img/topplate.jpg
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